Showing posts with label drl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label drl. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Hood Preparation

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Major System Category: Body (Hood/Shell)
Task: Clean up all issues on hood through primer
Parts: Primer (6 - 8 cans), Primer Sealer ( 4 cans)
Prerequisite Tasks:
Additional Costs: 150 - $190
Time Requirement: 70 - 90 hours
Date Started: July  10, 2013
Date Completed:  July 27, 2013
There are no short cuts here. If you don't want to do this part of the build, then farm it out.
This is close to the final version of the hood. It is basically how I spent my summer vacation. I used steel wool as a final stage prior to sealing the primer. This smooths it down close to a glass like surface.  It has been a long journey to this point, but I found I kind of liked the body work and I'm glad I didn't panic and farm it out.
The body work is the area that most intimidates me (not that I'm not intimidated about dropping in an engine and hooking up a seven speed transaxle). The hood presents many challenges:
  1. Seams
  2. Fender Louvers
  3. Headlight/foglights
  4. Grille Area
  5. Hood Latch area
  6. DRLs
If you peruse the Factory Five Forums, you start hearing that the car vanishes for weeks and months before it come back finally painted and finished. There is a princely sum associated with the work, and if it comes in under $15,000, it probably is a bargain. There is a ton of work that needs to be performed to get the car ready for paint.
This is an early photo from 9/27/2012. I just brought the hood back from my neighbor's garage. This looks deceptively easy. The surface is smooth. At this point, I didn't know the grille opening is not centered or that the hood is off by 3/4" or that the Factory Five hood louvers are really sub standard and that I would end up purchasing the Vraptor hood louvers. Ignorance is bliss.
The seams and the fender louvers present the greatest challenge. You can't simply grind down the excess material on the seams and say good enough. There are the following issues:
I spent more time getting the fender louvers right than anything else on the hood.  This is the louver before I did anything to it. I expected the left and right louvers to be identical. They are not. I expected them to line up nicely. They did not.  I am happy I have them, but they are very labor intensive. I spent man weeks getting these right.
  • The pieces connected by the seam are uneven, so grinding everything down to a even plane removes too much material.
  • The seam needs to have a fiber glass strip to strengthen the area, and this just takes time.
  • The hood has seams running from edges closest to the cockpit to forward the wheel wells, then down. There is another seam that runs across the front of the car over the grill.
  • Fender louver add a further complication, because they need to be feathered into the rest of the hood, and there are cuts required to make them functional. 
 
This another early photo (9/29/2012) with the Factory Five hood louvers and fender louvers taped in place. I used a cross hatch laser level to figure things. It is sitting at the bottom center on a small tripod. The best way to describe mounting the hood is that there are 100 ways to put the hood on and I settled on the 101st way. Someone who came by to see the car, asked if I intended to take the hood off when I painted the car. I popped open the hood and showed them how it was mounted, then explained, "It is never coming off again."
If you add DRLs, then these need to be custom cut and smoothed out.
Another non-standard mod are my DRLs. I had to cut into the hood just below the grille. These took some time, but eventually I got them mounted properly. It was only later that I realized I had to make them pretty. I might have to do some more work here before everything is perfect.

I think it is easier to do this work with the hood connected to the car, and the car on a lift. This configuration provides a stable platform for the sanding process (and you will do beaucoup sanding).
This is several months later (6/27/2013). The seams are pretty rough at this point. Someone asked me on the Factory Five forum why I bothered fiber glassing the seams, because other builders just ground them down. Yes, you need to get rid of the extra bonding material, but remember we are talking about the strength of the body here on a high performance car. I applied Bondo, fiber glass, more Bondo and sanded and more Bondo and more sanding... Well you get the idea. I have to say that when the front seam blended into the rest of the body I was amazed. At that point, I knew the only standing between myself and a completed car was me.
I use the following products to get the hood prepped:
This product is phenomenal. The can has two chambers: 1 for primer, 1 for fixer. You shake it up for 2 minutes, then pop a button on the bottom of the car. This opens the barrier between the primer and the fixer. Then you shake it for 2 more minutes. Now you have the perfect mix (every time) withe professional fan spray nozzle.

A friend commented that there was a lot of nasty Bondo to sand down. He wasn't wrong. I bonded the fender louver to the body using 3M's 8115 panel bond. I then fiber glassed the edges of the louver to the hood. I then spent many evenings feathering the louver into the hood. My bride asked me if I had bitten off more than I could handle. I admitted that might be true. I certainly wondered if this would ever look right.
Once I was satisfied with the primed surface, I went over it with steel wool to eliminate any "pebbly" surface distortions, then I sealed the hood. This stuff is pretty caustic, so get a respirator and face shield.
This is the louver 1 month later.

Thursday, October 18, 2012

DRL Mounting


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Major System Category: Body (Hood)
Task: Mount DRL
Parts: DRL aftermarket kit
Prerequisite Tasks:
Additional Costs: $10
Time Requirement: 2 hours
Date Started: October 18, 2012
Date Completed: October 18, 2012
Daytime Running Lights are not part of the basic kit. I understand they are a requirement in Europe and Canada. I really can't imagine building a car like the GTM and not having DRLs. I found my set on Ebay. All they are is a strip of LEDs enclosed in a plastic case with 22 gauge wire leads. I actually purchased the DRL kit before I ordered the GTM.
I taped off the area under the grille opening.
When I started working on the hood, I really did not have a good location for the DRLs. One GEN I builder put his under the headlights, but that doesn't seem to work very well on a GEN II. I had just gotten the front grille installed, and I was raising up the car at the end of a work session, when it occurred to me that I could mount the DRLs inside the hood shell under the grill. This is the fiber glass that encloses the bottom of the hood. There is a shelf to anchor the DRLs to.
Driver's side DRL set in place.
One of the truly odd things about the GEN II hood is its asymmetrical properties. The instructions for the Vraptor front grille contains a caution about attempting to mount the grille on the center line. This is because the grill opening is not centered. Hood symmetry is an issue for endless gripe sessions. Since I knew the grille opening was not centered on the hood, I just took Shane's advice (Vraptor wunderkind), and I centered the grille inside the grille opening.
Passemger side DRL set in place.
The top of the grille opening is approximately 29 inches. the bottom of the grille is 23 inches. This forms a trapezoid. I used the bottom angles as my center points for the DRLs. These were a little more than 6 inches long. I taped and marked the area. Ran my measurements and drew lines, took a deep breath and started cutting.
Front end view of the car with DRLs.
The first thing I used was a Dremel with a cutting disk. This made my first cut all the way through the fiber glass. I was concerned I might get this wrong. Next I used a reciprocating saw to make the horizontal lines. Returned with the Dremel to make the end cuts. Then I put a small drum sander on my right hand drill and started evening everything out. This went well. I have the DRLs screwed into the mounting brackets and I will panel bond the brackets to the inside of the hood shell using 3M's 8115. A little glazing putty around the edges and the DRLs are ready for wiring.
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