Coolant Line Routing

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Major System Category: AC & Cooling System
Task: Run the hard coolant pipes through the tunnel
Parts:

• Hard coolant pipes
• Corrugated flex pipe
• Spectre 7810 pipe adapter
• Corvette lower radiator hose (to adapt for upper radiator hose)

Prerequisite Tasks: Mount the radiator
Additional Costs: Insulated pipe wrap ($50)
Time Requirement: 60 - 90 minutes
Date Started: August 1, 2012
Date Completed: August 1, 2012
My strategy for the build is to do as much as I can prior to engine install. This is also part of my budget and cash flow strategy. I am 12 to 14 months out from my engine purchase, this means I am going to a number of tasks that terminate with the engine, but will remain incomplete until the engine and accessories are installed. The coolant lines are an example.

This is one of the hard coolant lines wrapped in insulator tape. I zip tied the ends and attached the appropriate connect sleeves. 

Consideration: The hard coolant lines are the main supply and return for engine coolant. This is going to run  through the tunnel. Consider insulating the pipes. I used a wrap that is rated to 1500 degrees. This is probably overkill, but heat is a problem with these cars.

Both wrapped hard coolant lines resting inside the tunnel. Orientation: the engine bay looking forward.

I wrapped the hard coolant lines and zip tied the ends. These pipes take up a fair amount of room in the tunnel. There are a number of other lines that run through the tunnel, including emergency brake cable, soft coolant lines, wiring, cable shift (or control lines for the paddle shift). I have not permanently tied anything down. I want to see how everything lays before installing the insulated clamps.

The 1/2 and 1/4 inch lines connecting into the radiator. This area will get more  crowded as  the AC lines get run.

After the coolant lines are in place, I installed the Spectre 7810 hose adapters on both ends of both pipes. If you don't have a lift, then I suggest installing these prior to placing them in the tunnel.

Lower radiator hose clamped to the radiator and uncut at this point.

The manual specifies the lengths for the front end corrugated flex tubing. I basically, gave myself an extra inch on the front end. There is some wiggle room here. The length requirements on the rear are shorter. I ran the flex tubing through the half moon shapes in the radiator aluminum. 

Coolant line run from the upper radiator to the hard line below.

Consideration: Ensure everything remains below the line of side on the inner wheel wells. The bulb seal for the hood goes on top of the wheel wells.

The item I am missing is the Corvette donor lower radiator hose needed to make an elbow from the driver's side upper radiator connection. A quick couple of clicks on my mouse, and found what I needed at Corvette Salvage. This part showed up a couple of days later. I went ahead and used a Spectre 7810 hose adapter to connect both ends.

Radiator Install

<< Radiator Aluminum                                                    Coolant Lines >>

Major System Category: AC & Cooling System
Task: Secure Radiator assembly to chassis
Parts:

• Radiator
• Fan Assembly
• Air Conditioner Condenser
• Rubber Isolators (LH/RH)

Prerequisite Tasks: Radiator Aluminum
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 30 Minutes (maybe a little longer if you have find some bolts)
Date Started: July 8, 2012
Date Completed: July 8, 2012
The radiator install was a breeze. Since my car will have air conditioning, this involved clipping together the air conditioner condenser, the radiator and the ran assembly. These parts are idiot proof. There is only one way to put these pieces together.

This assembly clips together. Once you have the orientation correct, it takes maybe a minute to connect things.

I test fitted the radiator assembly in place prior to finishing the radiator aluminum. I did this to make sure everything fit okay. I was a bit leery about going with a bigger radiator and purchased a brand new stock Corvette radiator. My experience in heavy summer time traffic or parades is that the stock radiator is more than adequate for a street car.

This is a side view of the clips. The air conditioner condenser  is facing .

Additional side view of the assembly.

Design Change: The build manual says to drill the frame of the radiator and rivet it to the three tabs om the front of chassis. (This is obvious when you are looking at the car.) I wasn't comfortable riveting a radiator into the car. I may decide to upgrade down the road, so I went down to my junk box and found two bolts with slip rings. I added Blue Loctite as a thread locker. This radiator is not going anywhere, but it can be maintained.

Rubber isokators (LH/RH) as packaged from Fparts.

LH isolator. The nipple needs to be removed.

After nipple is removed.

Entire radiator assembly installed on the chassis.

Bolted, not riveted, into place.

On the issue of maintenance, I think builders need to think about how certain tasks are going to be accomplished. When I work on the Boxster, I usually have to take apart a good part of the undercarriage to gain access to various systems. I want to make sure, I have ease of access to all systems on the GTM.