Inner Wheel Wells

<< Steering Rack                                                                 Radiator Aluminum >>


Major System Category: Chassis
Task: Install inner wheels
Parts: LH/RH Front Wheel Wells
Prerequisite Tasks:

• Protective Coatings
• Tire Rack Assembly                                  

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 4 hours
Date Started: July 4, 2012
Date Completed: July 6, 2012

The inner wheel wells attach to the front of the frame. They are the first sheet metal pieces that you will attach to the car. If you are going to apply any protective coatings to the metal, this is the time to do it. I'll admit I took my time with these panels. I wanted to make sure I was doing everything the way it needed to be done.

This is attached with screws and clamps. The screws are visible in the original holes. You can purchase bag of plastic clamps at Home Depot for $10 or so.

The first thing I did was reattach the panel to the chassis. I used the 6mm tap screws and clamps to make the panel stationary. 

I used a white Sharpie to trace the cross members from the chassis.

Consideration: Prior to making anything permanent, I mounted the pieces that are adjacent to the inner wheel wells. These pieces (e.g. radiator undertray, radiator duct panel, outer walls for the foot wells) all interact with the inner wheel wells. Some of these panels need to be riveted together. While I had everything connected, I drilled those holes.

I worked with both sides of the inner wheel wells. I also fit the radiator aluminum pieces together. These all need to fit  together. While I had things clamped, I drilled the holes to connect the radiator undertray to the inner wheel wells.

I marked the back of the inner wheel well. The rule of thumb here is three inch spacing for rivets to chassis, and 2 inch spacing for rivets to other sheet metal panels. 

I finally get to use the silicone I purchased last year.

I started out drilling with a conventional metal drill bit. Halfway through drilling into the chassis cross members, I went down to the hardware store and picked up a pair of 1/8 in ch titanium bits. Now it seems like I drilling through butter. 

You might want to leave the section of the inner wheel wells  un-riveted until after you fit the  outer wall of the foot box to the chassis. It will make it easier to fit things (up by the blue tape in photo).

Consideration: If you have trouble fitting the rivet into the hole, you can either try screwing one of 6mm or redrill to open up the hole.

Both sides are attached and ready to go.

I finish off the install by spraying the rivets with Plasti Dip. Now everything is black on the panel.


Consideration: If you plan to reinforce the radiator undertray (highly recommended), you probably want to drill the common rivet holes before you permanently attached the wheel wells.

Steering Rack Installation

<< Kit Disassembly                                                              Inner Wheel Wells >>


Major System Category: Steering
Task: Install steering rack to chassis
Parts: Steering Rack Assembly
Prerequisite Tasks: Kit Disassembly
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 minutes
Date Started: July 1, 2012
Date Completed: July 1, 2012

Many have told me that build manual is like the code in Pirates of the Caribbean -  more suggestion than rule. The manual references two part numbers, but I could only find one in the detailed inventory. I figured everything I needed for the steering rack would be in the same box. So I hopped in the Boxster, rambled down to the storage locker and retrieved the box.

Steering rack assembly sealed in plastic.

The assembly is a single piece that requires you to install some bushings and sleeves, then bolt it to the chassis. The steering column orientation is self explanatory.

Bushings and sleeves.

Bushings and sleeves installed on the assembly.

Orientation is looking at the chassis from the front. The blue tape indicates where the assembly is attached.

Assembly attached to the chassis. Torque to spec (see Appendix A of the manual).

Issues: This is a very straight forward task. A couple bushings, a couple of bolts and tighten everything to torque specification. It pretty much went that way on one side. These are the issues I ran into.

1. The powder coating was bit thicker on one side. I took the die grinder and opened up the hole. 
2. The sleeve was too tight for the bolt. I mounted a 1/2 inch drill bit and opened up the interior of the sleeve.