Front Tie Rod

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Major System Category: Brakes & Suspension
Task: Cut and attach front tie rod
Parts: Steering rack and outer tie rod
Prerequisite Tasks: Mount front suspension
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 minutes
Date Started: July 21, 2012
Date Completed: July 22, 2012
There is good news and bad news about the most of the steering components.

The good news is that pretty much everything appears to be sourced from Flaming River. This means parts can be readily replaced.

The bad news is most of these parts need to be modified to fit the GTM.

Tie rod connected to suspension after trimming 1 inch. There is still a little room left for the jam nut.  Orientation is passenger side front suspension.

Here's the problem. If you wind the outer tie rods all the way to the end of the threads and attempt to bolt it to the front suspension, the rods are too long. I checked SpyTech's Blog (because I knew I had read this somewhere), and he recommends cutting 1 inch off the tie rod as a starting point. I looked in the manual and I couldn't find the spot where it instructs you to cut the tie rod. I'm sure it is in there, but I couldn't find it. I followed SpyTech's instructions and everything worked out. This may be something I read on the forums as well.

This is the driver's side. As you can see we are pretty close to the end of the threads on the inner tie rod.  Orientation  is driver's side suspension.

All I had available was a hack saw, and I used that to trim the passenger side tie rod. After that dreadful experience I figured there are easier ways tot handle this. I went down to Loews and purchased a 3 inch diamond cutting wheel for my die grinder. Wow! I trimmed the driver's side tie rod in 2 minutes. Wear safety glasses for this one! Sparks fly all over the place.

Another look at the driver's side suspension a few minutes before I mounted the tires. Note the orientation of the shocks. This is opposite from the manual. I suspect the printed manual has other items that do not reflect engineering changes or design modifications. There is a great deal of forum discussion regarding the coil over shocks.

For some reason, you end up taking a little bit more off the driver's side tie rod. I had to trim two more times. In both cases less than the width of a dime. I eye balled the alignment for now.

Steering Rack Installation

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Major System Category: Steering
Task: Install steering rack to chassis
Parts: Steering Rack Assembly
Prerequisite Tasks: Kit Disassembly
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 minutes
Date Started: July 1, 2012
Date Completed: July 1, 2012

Many have told me that build manual is like the code in Pirates of the Caribbean -  more suggestion than rule. The manual references two part numbers, but I could only find one in the detailed inventory. I figured everything I needed for the steering rack would be in the same box. So I hopped in the Boxster, rambled down to the storage locker and retrieved the box.

Steering rack assembly sealed in plastic.

The assembly is a single piece that requires you to install some bushings and sleeves, then bolt it to the chassis. The steering column orientation is self explanatory.

Bushings and sleeves.

Bushings and sleeves installed on the assembly.

Orientation is looking at the chassis from the front. The blue tape indicates where the assembly is attached.

Assembly attached to the chassis. Torque to spec (see Appendix A of the manual).

Issues: This is a very straight forward task. A couple bushings, a couple of bolts and tighten everything to torque specification. It pretty much went that way on one side. These are the issues I ran into.

1. The powder coating was bit thicker on one side. I took the die grinder and opened up the hole. 
2. The sleeve was too tight for the bolt. I mounted a 1/2 inch drill bit and opened up the interior of the sleeve.

After Market Parts

Anyone who has perused the Factory Five Forum, or who has run a number of Google searches will realize that the GTM has spurred a vibrant after market. One of those places is Vraptor SPeedworks. These guys build GTMs, Superlite Coupes, Race Car Replicas and Ultima GTRs. They know where the problems exist, and they are contributors to the relevant forums. They manufacture and sell solutions to the problems they have run into on various builds.

This is a mounting plate for an ISIS Power cell. The problem addressed here is the lack of flat spots where the Power cells can be mounted on the frame. I figured out in an earlier post that I require 3 Power Cells and maybe an InMotion cell too.

So how frustrating or satisfying is it to deal with an after market GTM vendor? I have budgeted into the initial build estimate the Kooks Custom Exhaust supplied by Vraptor Speedworks. I figured I would like to know if they were a reliable source, before I plunk down $2000. A $140 order was my test case.

Mounting bracket for the ISIS Master Cell.

I put together a small order of ISIS mount plates, AC plenum and Stereo closeout panel. These were all items that addressed specific issues raised by multiple builders. My philosophy is to learn from those who have built one of more GTMs and have fashioned solutions.

The AC plenum relocates the blower motor from under the hood to the passenger side footwell. This provides better circulation of cool air inside the car.

I put my order together and emailed Shane at Vraptor Speedworks. He came back with the costs and a PayPal account to use. I paid the total and emailed a confirmation. Ten days later, the parts showed up. I dare say the service here was a darn sight better than some places I have recently dealt with (Grrrr, the Eibach Performance Sway Bars for the Boxster was an exercise in pulling teeth - not Eibach's problem, an unnamed vendor who will receive no more orders).

Stereo close out panel mounts between the dash and the tunnel. This reduces noise and  alleviates temperature issues by providing a seal around the stereo components. I might need one for the inTouchMax screen as well.

GTM Radiator

I got around to unpacking the radiator for the GTM. This is a stock OEM replacement radiator designed for C5 Corvette.

I went with a stock radiator for the following reasons:

1. My experience with the C5 under 100 degree temperatures in traffic idle situations. This the same set up as what will be installed into the GTM. Engine cooling runs up to around 230 degrees, then the fans kick in and she goes back to 215.
2. Fitment issues with the current GTM chassis. Alternative radiators (e.g. DeWitts, BeCool) have a bigger footprint. I am planning enough deviations from the standard spec on the car that I really do not want to deal with an additional issue. If/When I get into trouble, I can always go back to look at the Corvette and see how everything is put together.
3. I do not plan to race the car, so I see little upside benefit for a radiator costing $400 - $600 more and requiring additional work to get it installed.
4. I have other places where i want to spend money (some glamour / some performance / some just plain fun).

Donor Parts Kit Arrives!

This is really quite painless.

Fparts shipped the kit via ABF. I told them I needed a lift gate service as the destination was a residential garage. No problem. The ABF folks were very professional and we arranged a four hour window for delivery. Everything was packed on a single skid. We slid everything into the back of the garage, signed the paper work and got to work.

To give you an idea of how much space you'll need, here is a quick photo of the skid, the gun safe and the hound. There is more than enough room left to park the Boxster in front of the skid.

I didn't have a lot of time last night to work on this, but I'll go into detail in next post. I will say this. Fparts did a super job. Most parts are bubble wrapped, many are labeled and the skid is wrapped in plastic plus 3 steel bands.

Garage Prep I

My solution for body shell storage is to hoist the back 2/3 portion of the shell to the top of my garage. I asked Factory Five technical support for dimensions and weight requirements.

1. 14 - 15 feet long
2. 74 inches wide
3. 150 - 175 pounds

I had our handyman Ted install angle iron across 2 joists for strength.

He installed 4 three foot lengths with a width of 7 feet and a length of 10 feet. The idea is to lift by the wheel wells and door openings in the shell.

Next, I went  to Lowes and purchased a swivel eye pulley plus hanger. Each are rated to 400 pounds.

I attached the pulley to the hanger, then used two 200 pound rated cable ties to attach the hangers to the angle iron.

Just add rope and tie offs, and we have pullet lift more than capable of handling body shell for storage. It is probably a bit over built, but I really don't want to wake up some morning and find it resting on the garage floor.

The Great Parts Round Up Begins

At my birthday party last night, the guys from my small group asked me what I was up to. I mentioned that I was planning to do a GTM build. It was very reassuring to hear Don give his stamp of approval to Factory Five and the quality of their products. Don is a gear head from way back. Most of the guys were wondering if they could come over and turn some bolts. Certainly! One of the things this kind of project needs is friends.

Don asked if there was much welding. I don't think there is, but he has a spot welder I can use if it comes to that. Again, it is good to know there are friends there to help when (not if) I get into trouble.

I purchased the first real parts for the build: Porsche 930 CV Joints. Porsche OEMs are still making these parts even though they appeared in the 1979 Porsche 911 Turbo (model 930). The Mendeola SDR transmission requires these parts to hook the back wheels into the gear box. These aren't the biggest piece of the car, but it has to start somewhere. Besides the love of my life told me I had to make sure the wheels stayed on the chassis.

First Things First: Kit Detail

Once I decided to build the GTM (not something I came to overnight), then I had to figure out how to cash flow the project. If I had the ready cash to purchase all the components needed for the build, then I have the ready cash to buy the Ferrari and handle the maintenance. Since I concluded I didn't have those kind of resources, I needed to come up with a preliminary budget. I want my GTM to be unique (or as close to unique as possible). Let's be honest here, I want the final result of the build to be a rumbling, roaring beast capable of 200+ mph speeds and exceptional handling (the big grin kind of car).

The kit is the single most expensive component for the build, with engine and transmission coming in second and third respectively. Over the next couple of posts, I am going to detail the process of coming up with a budget and a purchasing order for the build. As it turns out, the kit is not the first thing I plan to purchase. However, we need to start with the kit (and options), due to the dependencies generated by the kit's composition.

Factory Five has an on line order form that details the base kit plus options. At this point, I am undecided about the carbon fiber splitter and rocker panels. I do not want a racing wing and I don't know if the donor will have a telescoping steering wheel. Since the Big Yellow Toy has one, I am inclined to get one here as well. The cost break down for the options I do want are as follows:

1. Base Kit - $19,990
2. A/C Unit - $1,350   (There is no way I am not going to have A/C as this will be a summer car)
3. 18 inch Wheels - $1,299 (This is a no brainer. I can't put the big brakes on the car without the big wheels)
4. Fender Louver - $199
5. Roof Scoop - $199
6. Logo Floor Mats - $115
7. Car Cover - $275
8. Cold Air Intake - $399  (Power! Power! Power!) 

This totals out to $23,826 plus shipping and handling. Let's just say it is $25,000 for round numbers. Granted I don't need all of these things right away, however, I want to optimize shipping costs by purchasing the major components in one shot.