Chassis #402 arrived at the end of June, 2012. It was a good time and a good distraction as I had just said good bye to Ripley, my Black Lab, a few weeks earlier. Rips watched me curiously as we worked on both the Porsche and Corvette - never quite sure what was going to happen next (neither was I). Based on my schedule, budget and other obligations this represents nine months of progress on the build since delivery. I split my time between the Northern and Southern Man Caves. Obviously, when I'm down south, the GTM waits patiently for me to return so we can get working on things.
Except for a few things like mounting the running gear, removing and installing the body shell and getting the transaxle into the chassis, I've done everything myself. Oh, there has been grand kid or two that cut wires and play with lights, several neighbors who stopped by to see what was happening, and plenty of other interested folks who wandered in. All this is to say, you can build one of these incredible cars on one side of a double garage in a suburban neighborhood.
I plan to do the final assembly at Southern Man Cave, which is being augmented with a number of bells and whistles to make jobs like moving engines and transaxles and body shells much easier. The nine months of work is basically weekends and evenings, a significant amount of mumbling to myself, deer in the head lights stares and wandering about the build looking for the tool I just had in my hand.
The major items completed or close to completion are:
Suspension installed.
Brake and clutch lines run.
Fuel system.
Most of the door internals.
Non-ECU wiring
Body work/modification up to primer.
Transaxle inside the chassis.
50% of the sound proofing
Most coolant lines run.
Miscellaneous items installed (e.g. side marker, nozzles, vents, HomeLink, Lights)
<< Parking Lights next >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up the DRLs Parts: Side Marker Lights Power Cell: 4 Circuit: 8 - GREEN Master cell: N/A - Controlled via control stalk and/or Kenwood DNN990 HD Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Side markers - $20 Time Requirement: 90 minutes Date Started: November 24, 2013
Date Completed: November 24, 2013
The base GTM design make no allowance for side markers. There are not even any reflectors. My buddy Brian observed that with a car this low to the ground and nothing to reflect on the sides is probably asking for trouble. I purchased two sets of side markers from Super Bright LED. There are many interesting items on this site. The other site I have used for lighting enhancement is http://www.autolumination.com/.
I measured up from the rear edge of the wheel well even with the fender louver. I marked the hole on both sides of the car,
At this point in the build, I have dealt with glassing the seams, shaved door handles, cutting into hood for fender louvers and rear body louvers, plus all the body work necessary to get to primer coats. So the idea of drilling a hole into the side of the hood for side markers is not very intimidating. Ask me about the same issue when the kit first arrived and I would give you a different answer. Once I decided to add side markers, then I decided to drill the holes on the primed vehicle. Things are much easier to fix at this point then on a car where everything his at finished paint.
Hopefully, by the time you end up drilling holes into the side of the car, you've done enough body work to be confident that the process can be reversed.
I plotted a line from the rear point of the wheel well to the fender louvers rear edge. On this line I placed the widest point of the marker. The wires from the marker are about .5 inches off the center point. So I measured 3 5/8 inches up from the rear wheel well point and drew a line .5 inches to the rear. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole as a pilot. I worked up drill bits to 13/32. At this hole size I can fit the wire and the connector through the hole.
The side marker wires run along the inside of the hood and around the inside of the fender louvers. The wire loom protects the side marker wires.
These side markers come with an splitter box that enables you to splice into the headlight and signal circuits. These wires can be run down the inside of the hood.
This splitter box cmes with the side marker lights, It ties into the headlight, signal and parking lights.
This the side marker. It is just held in place by tension on the wires. There is a connector between the marker light and the circuitry. This allows the marker to be removed for final paint.
The inMotion cell is the last fused module for the power system. This is different configuration from the normal power cell. It is designed to manage forward/backward, up/down and lock/unlock (e.g. door poppers, windows, mirrors). I concluded that it is cost prohibitive for mirrors as you would basically require an entire cell for mirror operation, and there is the size foot print issue to consider (e.g. I'm starting to run out of space).
The first thing you notice is the inMotion cell has only five fuse slots. This because the circuits are paired for up/down, on/off. forward/backward. The second thing you notice is the power leads include a black grounding cable.
At this point in the build, I still have the Passport 9500ci to shoe horn into and the inTouch Net black box to install. All of these items have to be accessible without having to take apart the car. The most inaccessible component is the Vintage Air HVAC unit. The rest of the car is literally built around this one component! My concern is if I have to get into the car for something that goes bump in the night, I don't want to be stuck dismantling most of the vehicle.
I used a Vraptor mounting plate and positioned it next to the master cell plate. These are hinged so they can be swung up under the passenger side dash.
I used one of Vraptor's Isis mount plates and a simple hinge from Home Depot to set up the mount for the inMotion cell. Originally, I purchased one additional mounting plate, but I did not end up using it. These were nice to have in inventory when the time came to get things done. The reason for the hinge is so the master and the inMotion cells can be swung up and latched above the passenger side of the cockpit. It is a little crowded over on that side, but there is a fair amount of leg room. Besides, this isn't a car built for long rides. I am building this car for myself, Sunday afternoons, local car shows and obnoxious Mustangs.
I ran the power and ground cables through the 2 inch conduit built in over the tunnel. This is an optional add on that costs nothing to do. It isn't my idea,. I came across this on another guys site. I don't remember which one anymore.
I ran the data cable through the 2 inch conduit that runs above the Vintage Air Unit and out the pre-drilled access hole to the front bay. The megafuse for the inMotion cell is somewhat different than the rest. It has 2 50 amp plug in fuses, and grounding for the inMotion celll is done directly to the frame.
I ran the grounding wires to the front frame, sanded off the powder coat and bolted them to the frame.
The Transaxle arrived today. It isn't just any transaxle. This one is a manual 7 speed, model 991. It is the same transaxle found in the current production Porsche 911s. As far as I know, my GTM is the first one to sport this transaxle.
Shipping crate dropped on the Northern Man Cave floor.
This journey began March 2013. I am writing this in November 2013. I responded to a post of the Factory Five Forum (a place I have been too busy to visit over the past several months). A couple of phone calls later, we settled on a deal to purchase the 991 transaxle, plus clutch, pressure plate, fly wheel, mating collar and modification for inverted operation. Basically, this is an all in one deal designed to handle the 525 HP ls376/525 slated to end up mated to the 991.
This the normal configuration for the 991. In the GTM this is inverted. Note the blue drain plug and the shift markings.
Gbox LLC is a small shop in Boulder, Colorado. They deliver what they promise. The transaxle comes backed in a custom built shipping box. There is plenty of padding to keep things from banging on the way from Boulder to the Northern Man Cave. The top is screwed down. The best thing about this shipping arrangement is there is no shipping pallet to dispose of.
The 991 tilted on its side. The shift lever is in the middle of the transaxle. The black circle on the end is where the transaxle is bolted to the frame.
The current build site is very limited in space. Even though the engine will not be purchased for a while, it is necessary to get the transaxle into the chassis. My friends Matt and Gary came by to help me get the transaxle into the car. Normally, you take the body shell off the car to mount the transaxle. It turns out the opening under the engine bay in the chassis is big enough to slide the transaxle into the chassis. There is approximately 2.5 inches clearance. The lack of an engine is the only way this works. Again, I'll repeat the recommendation - put off the engine purchase as long as possible.
Mating collars for the 991 and an LS block. This is a custom piece. You can see the GBOX Logo at the top of the photo.
We positioned the 991 vertically with the bell housing flat on a plywood sheet on top of a dolly. We rolled the transaxle under the lift and eye balled the location to be approximately under the opening in the chassis. (B TW: Rolling the transaxle on a dolly is a lot easier than trying to find a grp on this beast and manhandling it anywhere.) We lowered the lift until it was just above the top of the 991. This means the bottom of the lift is a little more than 2 feet off the floor. Gary climbed up on the lift so he could give us a visual looking down through the hatch. I got on my knees so I could get a visual as the lift came down. Matt watched it from another angle.
Clutch already bolted to the pressure plate and fly wheel.
I brought the lift down really slow. We made a couple of minor adjustments (and we needed all sets of eyes on the transaxle to make sure we didn't do something bad). I got the bottom of the lift about 3 inches off the floor. This leaves the transaxle about halfway up to the cross member where it is cradled in the chassis.
Fly wheel. I so glad I just have to mount this in place.
Earlier, I measured the transaxle cross member and the opening on the transaxle bracket. It turns out the 991 needs an opening of 3.5 inches, and my bracket only has 2/75 inches. The transaxle bracket is the removable piece that can be swapped out between aither the Mendeola SDR or the Porsche G50 transaxles. The 991 is different enough that the bracket needs further modification. Last summer I jad the Vraptor pieces welded in place for the wing. I removed the bracket before the guys arrived to help. This made it easier, because this all comes down to brutal force to get it mounted.
These are the tabs that the transaxle needs to bolt through. They have to be cut out and moved so the inner diameter is at least 3.5 inches. When I dropped it off at Crystal Welding, I explained the situation and we agreed on the technical measurement of a smidge over 3.5 inches for the inner measurement.
Now it gets tricky. The three of us looked down through the hatch at the transaxle. It is sitting there and it was kind of a Now-What moment. I clambered over the edge of the hatch and first stepped where the engine mounts reside. Matt leaned over the back end of the body shell, and Gary helped find things as we needed them. He thought about trying to heft it up. In the end, I tipped it backwards on the cradle. We had to be extra careful not to damage the drain plug. So I ended up standing on the dolly - this proved to be one of those dumb things that worked out okay.
I couldn't done this without these guys! Matt and Gary did a great job!
Matt held the back end of the transaxle, Gary had the 2x4 wood blocks and straps ready, and I tilted the 991 towards the cradle. Unfortunately, not only did the 991 move, but so did the dolly, the plywood sheet and my feet. I kind of did the Fred Flintstone run in place under the lift with a 200 lbs transaxle in my hands. Fortunately, we had enough leverage and the transaxle moved (relatively easily) into place. The dolly eventually slid out from under me and I was on stable ground. We strapped the and braced the transaxle in place, declared victory and congratulated each other on a job complete.
Here she is strapped and braced in place. I should have the transaxle bracket back in a couple of weeks, then she will be bolted into place until it comes time to install the engine.
<< Mount Rear SuspensionTransaxle Delivery >> Racing Wing >> Major System Category: Transmission Task:Weld Wing Mount to Transaxle Bracket Parts: Vraptor Wing Mount Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: $500 parts, $100 welding Time Requirement: 1 Hour Date Started: August 15, 2013 Date Completed: August 15, 2013 One of the optional items for the car is a functional wing. The wing advertised on the Factory Five site is the APR-300 67 inch wing made out of carbon fiber. The photos on the parts catalog page indicate the racing wing attaches to the rear deck of the body shell. While the rear deck is reinforced by the transaxle bracket it is still fiberglass and it is not a direct connection to the frame. I a, mot sold on the idea that the fiber glass body shell can handle the stresses that are generated by a functional wing.
This is the universal wing mount kit from Vraptor. Four of the pieces are welded to the transaxle bracket. The other two pieces are bolted to the welded pieces and extend through the body shell to mount the APR wing.
This is where Vraptor Speedworks comes to play. They sell a universal wing mount that is welded to the transaxle bracket. A competent welding shop can weld these pieces for about $100 - in my case Crystal Welding. A wing mount that translates down force to the frame rather than the body shell. This thing is solid like a rock. This can handle whatever stresses I generated with a LS76/525 engine mated to a 7 speed transaxle on Nitti INVO tires.
Top view of the modified transaxle bracket,
The transaxle bracket is secured to the chassis using four bolts. One of the things that concerned me was there going to be enough clearance when the transaxle is sitting in the cradle. Once the transaxle arrived, I discovered I had to further modify the transaxle bracket to handle the sleeve where trhe transaxle bolts to the bracket. I'm pretty sure there is no problem with the bolts. It turns out the Porsche 991 transaxle needs 3.5 inch sleeve, and the bracket I have only goes to 3.75 inches.
<< Windshield Wiper Harness - Circuit 3/5 Parking Lights - Circuit 4/8 >> Weather Pack Connectors Major System Category: ISIS Task: Hazard lights Parts: Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 3 hours Date Started: November 7, 2013
Date Completed: November 7, 2013
The hazard lights are one of those circuits that runs the length of the car. This circuit was assigned to Power Cell #4, which did not get installed until Fall 2013. However, the planning and preliminary wiring for this circuit took place in Fall 2012. I had to think about how this was going to work out 14 months prior to getting this done.
Hazard circuit terminal block. This located on the center aluminum panel in the front bay. This photo was taken prior to mounting Power Cell #4.
I decided that once I had the hood installed and centered, it was never coming off the car again. I made this decision for a couple of reasons:
There are too many systems tied into the hood (e.g. head lights, fog lights, signals, sensors, grille).
The hood is not symmetrical. Prior to mounting the hood, I spent three days with the cross hatch laser level figuring out that it was off center. Once I had it mounted on the car, I decided I was not taking it off again.
The yellow wire in the lower left is the hazard circuit coming out of the left front turn signal and going through the conduit along the hood above the grille.
The hazard lights are located on the four corners of the car. Regardless of the power cell location, I was going to end up running wires a long way. I have gotten better at the concept that even though car is approximately 16 feet long, a wire run like this is probably closer to 20 feet due to path down into the tunnel and back up around the engine bay.
This is the other side of the hazard circuit coming out on the right front of the car. The yellow wires run to the other signal then through the conduit to the terminal block.
I mounted a terminal block where one side is daisy chained (i.e. all sockets are wired together on one side). This means a single power lead distributes power to all ports on the terminal block. Based on my design, I knew where Power Cell #4 was going to be mounted, so prior to purchase I built the hazard circuit terminal block next to the power cell location and wired the circuit into the front signals. I also ran wires to the rear of the car for the rear signal lights. This conduit comes out at the rear of the tunnel close to the cable box for the manual parking brakes. The rear power leads are split to go around the engine bay and up to the rear lights.
The yellow wires are the rear leads from the terminal block. They run under the Vintage Air unit through a large conduit to the rear end of the tunnel. The braided cable is the cross over pipe for the fuel tanks.
By law (as I understand it), the car is required to have a physical hazard switch. The switch is slated to be mounted on the center console below the touch screen and forward the gear shift. Since I am using ISIS, I just need to run the signal wire and a ground to this switch to complete circuit.
The hazard circuit (yellow wires) split to the left and right into conduits that work around the engine bay to the rear lights. The rectangular item in the lower left background is the cable box for the manual brakes. These run under the engine.
These are circuits enclosed in wire loom that run around the engine bay and next tot he splash guards.
<< Exhaust VentSide Scoop Louvers >> Major System Category: Body (Doors) Task: Parts: Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 3 hours Date Started: August 23, 2013
Date Completed: August 24, 2013
Shaved door handles means that the normal latch/handle arrangement used for opening a door doesn't exist anymore. The exterior handles are not installed. This does present a problem, because the doors come with an oval pocket to for the external door handles.
This the cut out acrylic template after it was buffed and sanded. Yes it is clear (that's the point) so the shape can be easily traced.
I am going with a door popper system. Briefly the door popper opens the door latch (which is internal to the door) when a solenoid fires and contracts the steel cable connected to the latch. Once the latch is released, a plunger on a spring that is installed through the body shell pushed the door open. As a precaution, I need to rig a manual cable to open the door in the event the battery is dead. Hopefully, the InReserve system performs as advertised and this never happens.
Traced pattern on scrap fiber glass.
I used a clear acrylic piece and a permanent marker to roughly trace the opening for the door handles from one of the doors. This is one of those times that something is identical between both doors. I cut the template out of the clear piece and sanded the edges until it fit easily in to the door handle slot. I used the acrylic template to trace two patterns on fiberglass scrap, and produced two fiber glass plates that fit (after some more sanding and shaping) into the door handle openings.
Cut out plates for door handle openings.
I then set the doors so the outer surface faced up (remember to support underside with something so there isn't undue pressure on the rear pillar). I used LocTite's fiberglass and aluminum epoxy. One tube was more than enough for both handles. I worked it along the edges. Next I set the fiber glass plate in place and attempted to make it as level as possible with the door surface. It doesn't have to perfect at this point, just close. If you spill some epoxy on the door, that's okay as well. It will get cleaned up in next paragraph.
Fiber glass plate epoxied in place. I used the angle grinder to eliminate high spots.It was high on the right hand side.
Since summer is still in full force, I set up the doors on a table outside the garage. I took the opportunity to sand and prep the doors for primer using the orbital sander. This allowed me to get rid of excess epoxy on the door surface. The plates I cut from scrap fiber glass were not completely even (as they came from the exhaust vents I cut in the body shell). I worked off the high spots with the angle grinder. I needed a light touch with this, otherwise, I would have done more damage than good.
Doors after the second layer of bondo was applied. Time for a quick run to let everything set up and dry.
Finally, it was just a matter of applying bondo, sanding, more bondo, more sanding until there is no indication that a handle socket ever existed.
This was pretty close to the finish. I applied some glazing compound to handle a few low spots.
<< Rear Body LouversShaved Handles >> Major System Category: Body (Shell) Task: Cut the two openings for the exhaust. Parts: Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 1 hour Date Started: August 22, 2013
Date Completed: August 22, 2013
I had not planned on cutting the exhaust vents at this point in time. However, I went through my collection of scrap fiber glass (basically, pieces that have been trimmed from the car already), and discovered I didn't have a piece large enough to cut plates for the shaved door handles. It didn't occur to me right away, but the exhaust vents offer a large enough piece for the door handle plates.
Even though I flubbed drawing the line, I did cut it straight.
This is a very straight forward task (that requires a modicum of ingenuity to get done). If you think that's a contradiction, then you haven't been building a GTM for the past year. The build manual instructs to measure 8.5 inches from either side of the center indentation where the license plate is mounted. Note: The indentation is slightly trapezoid so measurements need to account for a slight difference top to bottom.
Here are the cut out pieces for the exhaust vents. Now I can form the plates for the shaved door handles.
I used a Dremel tool and a die grinder with cut off wheels to make the initial cuts. My preference is the Dremel tool, because it is easier to be precise. There some difficulty in getting the small Dremel cut off wheel inside the indentation to get all the way through the fiber glass. Once I had some initial cuts made, I was able to enlarge from the inside portion of the body shell. I had to be careful so I didn't get a cut going at an angle. Next, I took a reciprocating saw to finish the cuts, then a sanding block to smooth out the cut edges.
<< Wiper motor and Washer Fluid Tank Hazard Wiring - Circuit 4/6 >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Connect steering column controls to wiper motor and washer pump Parts: Power Cell: 3 Circuit: 5 - WHITE Master cell: TAN/BLACK Prerequisite Tasks: Install the steering column Additional Costs: N/A Time Requirement: 2 hours (alone) / 4 hours if you have your 4 year old grand son help Date Started: August 17, 2013
Date Completed: August 17, 2013
Zachary wanted to cut wire. He cut this piece into teensy-weensy pieces.
One of the things that has been bugging me for the past week or so is how does the washer motor in the windshield fluid reservoir get power and signal. It seems like a simple thing, but I hadn't really dug into the problem until today. Zachary, one of my grandsons, was here to help. He did a great job cutting up wire. In fact, he demolished two scrap pieces of yellow and green wire.
Circuit drawing of the wiper motor and control stalk.
The manual has a section on the windshield wiper harness. You can't really tackle this task until both the wiper motor and the steering column are attached. These two assemblies form the end points of the windshield wiper harness. The wiring on each end of the harness is slightly different.
Steering column wiper harness. The lower yellow, green, gray and pink wires extend to the wiper motor. The second yellow splices into the door popper circuit. The purple is not used.
The steering column harness can be traced from the control stalk on the right hand side under the column and over to a plug. It is zip tied together with other wires for a while. What you want to find is the following:
Pink (washer pump)
Gray
Dark Green
Purple (not used)
Yellow (there are two wires) (power)
This is the bundle coming off the wiper motor.
The wiper motor has a wrapped bundle of wires coming out the front of the motor pointed towards the front left corner of the car. This has the following wires:
Gray
Dark Green
Purple (not used)
Yellow (power)
Black (ground)
Terminal block at hte wiper motor. The yellow, green and gray are spliced together. The black is spliced into a master ground/ The red extends on to the washer pump.
The build manual indicates the purple wire should be cut because it is out of specification for the GTM's wipers. My solution was to not extend tthe purple wire at all.
I wired up a terminal block that can be mounted under the steering column and ran wires to the wire motor, where I wired up a second terminal block.
I extended the gray, dark green and yellow wires between both terminal blocks.
I extended the pink wire only from the steering column terminal block to the washer pump. I had to attach a blade socket to end of this wire.
I ran the ground for the wiper motor in place of the pink wire on the second terminal block.
I extended a ground wire (with a blade terminal) to the washer motor.
The wiper motor ground and washer pump grounds are extended to the same terminal ground block used for the InReserve and Horn.
Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up the DRLs Parts: Power Cell: 1 Circuit: 8 - GREEN Master cell: BLUE/LIGHT BLUE Prerequisite Tasks: Mount DRLs Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 90 minutes Date Started: August 10, 2013 Date Completed: August 10, 2013
A good chunk of the front end wiring never got completed in April 2013. When I returned from the Southern Man Cave, I spent the first seven weeks working on the body. In northern climes, you really need to take advantage of the warm weather months! The GTM has been living with dangling wires from the DRLs, power cells and other things. I left them to hang down behind the grille, and it looked like a real mess.
This is an early photo of the passenger side DRL mount. You can see wires dangling over the side. This is not the first GTM to have DRLs.
Fortunately, I have wiring diagrams worked out for these circuits. In addition, I have a spreadsheet in my master build document that goes into detail about each circuit. I will be sending this spread sheet along with my next order to ISIS Power for the remaining power cells, motion cell and master cell coder. This is because I need ISIS to prep a file that can be downloaded into the master cell for my specific circuit set up. With five power cells, I am pushing 50 circuits - there's a lot going on in the car.
This Gen I GTM in Poland mounted the DRLs above the front grille. I am finding that this area is very busy. I use the upper lip of the front grill to manage the cross connection between head lights, hazards, fog lights. I'm not sure I would want to add the DRLs there. I corresponded with this builder, and asked him about the DRLs. As in every case, GTM builders are quite happy to share their knowledge.
This is half a terminal block. Easily cut with a hack saw.
The DRLs were cut into the body to the left and right lower corners of the grille opening. The fiber glass is very thick in this area, and it is tough going. The wires coming off the DRLs is 22 gauge (not the easiest stuff to work with). Initially, I thought I would create some kind of socket to plug these into, but since I plan to add Angel Eyes around the head lights into the DRL circuit, the idea of some kind og 6 way splice become unmanageable.
I daisy chain the terminal block to create a single circuit. Then I just need a single to power or ground.
Over May and June, I worked on the Intellitronix Dash for the cockkpit. One of the techniques I used here were terminal blocks. Now six way splices are easy. The white plastic terminal blocks are very easy to customize. They come in strips of twelve connections and the strip can be cut apart with a hack saw. I need six connectors for the ground and six connectors for the power leads. That is: 2 x DRLs, 4 x Angel Eyes.
These are the power and ground terminal blocks for the DRLs. The green wire is from Power Cell #1, Circuit 8. The black ground lead hasn't been connected in this photo. The terminals were bonded to the hood using 3M 8115 panel bond.
Note: Angel Eyes cannot be installed after final paint is complete. This is probably 12 to 14 months in the future (and it could slip to Spring 2015). However, the Angel Eyes need a place to connect, so I AM building that now.
The hood mounting is problematic due to the variables associated with centering vis-a-vis the rest of the car.. I explain to people that there are 100 ways to mount the hood, and I settled on the 101st position. I have made the decision that hood will remain attached to the car and it will need to be painted in place. Everything else can be removed. To this point, a great number of things have been permanently mounted (e.g. lights, signals, parking sensors) and the wiring associated with these peripherals.
I mounted the terminal blocks above the front grille opening on the interior of the hood. This is convenient, because most of the wires can run directly to these terminal blocks. The ground is to the chassis area that supports the AC condenser, radiator and fan assembly. The power lead runs to Power cell #1 and is enclosed in wire loom. I made sure I left enough slack in the wires so the hood can open and close without pulling something loose.
This task isn't rocket science, but is is something you probably want to get done before you drop an engine in the car. The cooling fans on the radiator unit have two plugs. The fan itself is controlled by a temperature switch controlled by the ECU. Here's the problem, the fans are up front and the ECU is back behind the fuel tanks.
These are the wires supplied with the kit.
The kit comes with a packet containing wires in the correct color and gauge. All you have to do is connect them then run them back to the other end of the car via the tunnel. I already had a large wire loom conduit in the tunnel, so I just routed them using it. These wires run by a number of tubes and pipes carrying hot fluids. Wire loom is provided with the kit - use it. The kit comes with a long strand of wire loom, but there are needs for different sizes of wire loom. Harbor Freight and Amazon have plenty of packages to choose from.
You need to cut back the tape so the wire can be exposed and stripped for the splice.
The wires are coded: gray, blue, black and white. This is how they were paired on my equipment. I am guessing I will need to know this eventually.
Wires extended and ready to be plugged back into the fan assembly.
