<< Mount Headlights and Turn signalsGen II GTM Front Grille >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up head lights Parts: Kit wiring Power Cell: 1 Circuit: 5 - WHITE Master cell: WHITE/GREEN Prerequisite Tasks: Head lights new to mounted Additional Costs: N/A Time Requirement: 2 hours Date Started: October 20, 2012 Date Completed: March 30, 2013
The GTM comes with Phillips H9 HID bulbs for both the high and low beams. The first thing the needs to be done is build the KET connectors. These fit into the plugs that fit the H9 bulbs. I looked up this YouTube video that shows how to put everything together.
Now that I am beginning to rough in the wiring, I realize I need to get serious about grounding points on the frame. I also need to think strategically about where to run wires and how long those runs need to be. Finally, I need to seriously start figuring out where I am going to mount my power cells. I have staked out space for the master cell and one power cell to live under the dash on the passenger side; I need to find space for 3 power cells under the hood; one more power cell in the engine bay. And I may need one more power cell.
I ran wires over the front grille opening in wire loom to connect the headlights and fog lights together.
One modification is to relocate and SHRINK the washer fluid container. I think I can put this on the passenger side since I eliminated the coolant overflow tank because I am going with Crash's header tank. My intention is to mount one power cell in place of the standard washer tank location. This is above the battery on the driver's side.
When I started this post, I didn't even have the power cells. Since that point in time, have all power cells mounted and deployed. I mounted power cells #1, #3 and #4 on the center aluminum panel. The mega fuses are on the other side.
Since the high beams and low beams run on separate circuits, I am running lines from the passenger side to the driver side to connect both circuits. This line is mounted in the lip of the hood above the grille opening.I ran the feed wires from Power cell #1 along the driver side inner wheel well to the driver side head light then over to the passenger side.Ground go to terminal blocks mounted on the inner wheel wells. these will be sealed with Automotive Goop.
The power cells are mounted facing forward. The one thing I did run into was interference from the hood louvers. The Vraptor ones are bigger and deeper, so I had to cut a notch to ensure I didn't end up rubbing a wire. I also shortened the data bus cable.
Update: One thing that did happen as I worked on the front end of the car was that the connectors for the headlights did not hold together very well. I ended up ordering prewired pigtails from Auto Lumination. Ultimately, I ended up with 1 master cell, 4 power cells and one motion cell. I'm sure I could find room to mount one additional cell if I had to, but space is pretty tight.
<< Brake Light SwitchWeather Pack Connectors >> Major System Category: ISIS Task: Brake lights Parts: Prerequisite Tasks: Power Cell: 2 Circuit: 3- LIGHT GREEN Master cell: YELLOW BLUE Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 2 hours Date Started: November 13, 2013
Date Completed: November 13, 2013
The brake light circuit is split between two lights (the same the parking lights and hazard flashers). The power leads for the hazard and parking lights come through the tunnel from the forward power cells. At the rear end of the tunnel, these leads split to the right and left. I have a wire loom conduit running along the rear splash guards. The split is located next to the parking brake cable box.
This Is the conduit coming from the tunnel into the engine bay. I ran the hazard and parking light circuits through this. There was no need to run the brake circuit through this conduit, because the brake light switch is wired to the ISIS Master Cell. The signal will be transmitted to through the data bus. This is another instance where ISIS saves you time and effort.
The brake circuit is assigned to Power Cell #2. This is the power cell located in the rear engine bay. I routed the power lead for the brake lights to the same area and spliced the power lead to wires running though the same conduits the parking and hazard circuits.
The hazard lights (yellow), parking lights (green) and brake lights (red). The Hazard and parking circuits come from the front of the car. The brake circuit comes from Power Cell 2, which is mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay. I just ran the brake circuit down the wire loom to get tot he other light. I am glad I did, because the transaxle bracket can be a bear to get back on the car when the body shell is mounted.
The brakes are activated by the brake light switch under the steering column. The switch is wired to the corresponding signal wire from the master cell.
The brake line circuit gets wired together using a terminal block. Once I know everything works I will use Goop to seal up everything.
From a maintenance perspective, all tail light circuits are connected to the power leads with Weather Pack connectors. The reason for this is if the body shell has to come off, the rear lights can be disconnected from the power system.
I ran two legs of wire loom for all the circuits going to the lights. I run them under the cross member at the point where the engine bay begins and the tunnel ends.
<< Side Marker - Circuit 4/8Brake Light - Circuit 2/3 >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Mount brake Light switch Parts: Mounting bracket and brake light switch Power Cell: 2 Circuit: 3 - LIGHT GREEN Master cell: YELLOW/BLUE Prerequisite Tasks: Install Steering Column Additional Costs: N/A Time Requirement: 2 hours Date Started: August 7, 2013 Date Completed: August 8, 2013
The brake light switch is a pretty simple item. Basically, you take the Factory Five bracket and the donor car's brake light switch. Install the switch on the bracket, and figure out how far the switch needs to be positioned so that when pressing the brake the circuit closes.
This is the bracket and dwitch clamped in place for measurement. This is looking towards the front of the car from beneath the dash. The switch needs to be half way depressed when the brake pedal is at rest.
This is a job best performed by skinny midgets. The kit manual makes this look deceptively easy, and it is if you haven't installed anything beyond the brake and clutch pedals. However, you really need the steering column in place due to the pillow block on the column. The best thing to do is to leave the steering wheel off (this is the only way I could get my head under the dash). It is definitely impossible for anyone taller than three feet or weighing more than 90 pounds to get under there if the seats are installed.
This is a small space. I have removed the steering wheel, but it is still an acrobatic exercise to get positioned under the dash. You need eyes down there to get things lined up so holes can be drilled .
This ends up being about three or four trips under the dash to get this put together. The manual indicates that rivnuts should be used to attach the bracket. (I'm not a fan of rivnuts, and as the BLEEPING tool is busted, I no longer use them in the build.) If you have done any serious building on the driver's side foot well, then I don't see how it is possible to get leverage that far under the dash to effectively use the rivnut tool. Instead, I use Helicoils. Some people argue there isn't enough metal for Helicoils. I have had good success with Helicoils on the frame when I use them with Red Loctite.
Only two wires are required for the brake switch per the manual. As this is going to connect into the brake circuit and act as the switch via th ISIS system, I wired it with a terminal block so it would be easy to splice into the circuit.
The other thing I did was wire the brake switch into a terminal block so it would be easy to connect. These wires were cut off very short, so a terminal block seemed a better way to go. It is always easy to cut wire shorter; it is less easy to lengthen it in tight spaces. I did all the wiring work on my bench in the Northern Man cave's lower level.
Yours truly packed under the dash. There are many things that poke, grind and scrape as you burrow in under the dash.
Finally, I used bolts with locking washers to secure the bracket in place.
<< Parking Lights next >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up the DRLs Parts: Side Marker Lights Power Cell: 4 Circuit: 8 - GREEN Master cell: N/A - Controlled via control stalk and/or Kenwood DNN990 HD Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Side markers - $20 Time Requirement: 90 minutes Date Started: November 24, 2013
Date Completed: November 24, 2013
The base GTM design make no allowance for side markers. There are not even any reflectors. My buddy Brian observed that with a car this low to the ground and nothing to reflect on the sides is probably asking for trouble. I purchased two sets of side markers from Super Bright LED. There are many interesting items on this site. The other site I have used for lighting enhancement is http://www.autolumination.com/.
I measured up from the rear edge of the wheel well even with the fender louver. I marked the hole on both sides of the car,
At this point in the build, I have dealt with glassing the seams, shaved door handles, cutting into hood for fender louvers and rear body louvers, plus all the body work necessary to get to primer coats. So the idea of drilling a hole into the side of the hood for side markers is not very intimidating. Ask me about the same issue when the kit first arrived and I would give you a different answer. Once I decided to add side markers, then I decided to drill the holes on the primed vehicle. Things are much easier to fix at this point then on a car where everything his at finished paint.
Hopefully, by the time you end up drilling holes into the side of the car, you've done enough body work to be confident that the process can be reversed.
I plotted a line from the rear point of the wheel well to the fender louvers rear edge. On this line I placed the widest point of the marker. The wires from the marker are about .5 inches off the center point. So I measured 3 5/8 inches up from the rear wheel well point and drew a line .5 inches to the rear. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole as a pilot. I worked up drill bits to 13/32. At this hole size I can fit the wire and the connector through the hole.
The side marker wires run along the inside of the hood and around the inside of the fender louvers. The wire loom protects the side marker wires.
These side markers come with an splitter box that enables you to splice into the headlight and signal circuits. These wires can be run down the inside of the hood.
This splitter box cmes with the side marker lights, It ties into the headlight, signal and parking lights.
This the side marker. It is just held in place by tension on the wires. There is a connector between the marker light and the circuitry. This allows the marker to be removed for final paint.
The inMotion cell is the last fused module for the power system. This is different configuration from the normal power cell. It is designed to manage forward/backward, up/down and lock/unlock (e.g. door poppers, windows, mirrors). I concluded that it is cost prohibitive for mirrors as you would basically require an entire cell for mirror operation, and there is the size foot print issue to consider (e.g. I'm starting to run out of space).
The first thing you notice is the inMotion cell has only five fuse slots. This because the circuits are paired for up/down, on/off. forward/backward. The second thing you notice is the power leads include a black grounding cable.
At this point in the build, I still have the Passport 9500ci to shoe horn into and the inTouch Net black box to install. All of these items have to be accessible without having to take apart the car. The most inaccessible component is the Vintage Air HVAC unit. The rest of the car is literally built around this one component! My concern is if I have to get into the car for something that goes bump in the night, I don't want to be stuck dismantling most of the vehicle.
I used a Vraptor mounting plate and positioned it next to the master cell plate. These are hinged so they can be swung up under the passenger side dash.
I used one of Vraptor's Isis mount plates and a simple hinge from Home Depot to set up the mount for the inMotion cell. Originally, I purchased one additional mounting plate, but I did not end up using it. These were nice to have in inventory when the time came to get things done. The reason for the hinge is so the master and the inMotion cells can be swung up and latched above the passenger side of the cockpit. It is a little crowded over on that side, but there is a fair amount of leg room. Besides, this isn't a car built for long rides. I am building this car for myself, Sunday afternoons, local car shows and obnoxious Mustangs.
I ran the power and ground cables through the 2 inch conduit built in over the tunnel. This is an optional add on that costs nothing to do. It isn't my idea,. I came across this on another guys site. I don't remember which one anymore.
I ran the data cable through the 2 inch conduit that runs above the Vintage Air Unit and out the pre-drilled access hole to the front bay. The megafuse for the inMotion cell is somewhat different than the rest. It has 2 50 amp plug in fuses, and grounding for the inMotion celll is done directly to the frame.
I ran the grounding wires to the front frame, sanded off the powder coat and bolted them to the frame.
<< Windshield Wiper Harness - Circuit 3/5 Parking Lights - Circuit 4/8 >> Weather Pack Connectors Major System Category: ISIS Task: Hazard lights Parts: Prerequisite Tasks: Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 3 hours Date Started: November 7, 2013
Date Completed: November 7, 2013
The hazard lights are one of those circuits that runs the length of the car. This circuit was assigned to Power Cell #4, which did not get installed until Fall 2013. However, the planning and preliminary wiring for this circuit took place in Fall 2012. I had to think about how this was going to work out 14 months prior to getting this done.
Hazard circuit terminal block. This located on the center aluminum panel in the front bay. This photo was taken prior to mounting Power Cell #4.
I decided that once I had the hood installed and centered, it was never coming off the car again. I made this decision for a couple of reasons:
There are too many systems tied into the hood (e.g. head lights, fog lights, signals, sensors, grille).
The hood is not symmetrical. Prior to mounting the hood, I spent three days with the cross hatch laser level figuring out that it was off center. Once I had it mounted on the car, I decided I was not taking it off again.
The yellow wire in the lower left is the hazard circuit coming out of the left front turn signal and going through the conduit along the hood above the grille.
The hazard lights are located on the four corners of the car. Regardless of the power cell location, I was going to end up running wires a long way. I have gotten better at the concept that even though car is approximately 16 feet long, a wire run like this is probably closer to 20 feet due to path down into the tunnel and back up around the engine bay.
This is the other side of the hazard circuit coming out on the right front of the car. The yellow wires run to the other signal then through the conduit to the terminal block.
I mounted a terminal block where one side is daisy chained (i.e. all sockets are wired together on one side). This means a single power lead distributes power to all ports on the terminal block. Based on my design, I knew where Power Cell #4 was going to be mounted, so prior to purchase I built the hazard circuit terminal block next to the power cell location and wired the circuit into the front signals. I also ran wires to the rear of the car for the rear signal lights. This conduit comes out at the rear of the tunnel close to the cable box for the manual parking brakes. The rear power leads are split to go around the engine bay and up to the rear lights.
The yellow wires are the rear leads from the terminal block. They run under the Vintage Air unit through a large conduit to the rear end of the tunnel. The braided cable is the cross over pipe for the fuel tanks.
By law (as I understand it), the car is required to have a physical hazard switch. The switch is slated to be mounted on the center console below the touch screen and forward the gear shift. Since I am using ISIS, I just need to run the signal wire and a ground to this switch to complete circuit.
The hazard circuit (yellow wires) split to the left and right into conduits that work around the engine bay to the rear lights. The rectangular item in the lower left background is the cable box for the manual brakes. These run under the engine.
These are circuits enclosed in wire loom that run around the engine bay and next tot he splash guards.
Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up the DRLs Parts: Power Cell: 1 Circuit: 8 - GREEN Master cell: BLUE/LIGHT BLUE Prerequisite Tasks: Mount DRLs Additional Costs: Time Requirement: 90 minutes Date Started: August 10, 2013 Date Completed: August 10, 2013
A good chunk of the front end wiring never got completed in April 2013. When I returned from the Southern Man Cave, I spent the first seven weeks working on the body. In northern climes, you really need to take advantage of the warm weather months! The GTM has been living with dangling wires from the DRLs, power cells and other things. I left them to hang down behind the grille, and it looked like a real mess.
This is an early photo of the passenger side DRL mount. You can see wires dangling over the side. This is not the first GTM to have DRLs.
Fortunately, I have wiring diagrams worked out for these circuits. In addition, I have a spreadsheet in my master build document that goes into detail about each circuit. I will be sending this spread sheet along with my next order to ISIS Power for the remaining power cells, motion cell and master cell coder. This is because I need ISIS to prep a file that can be downloaded into the master cell for my specific circuit set up. With five power cells, I am pushing 50 circuits - there's a lot going on in the car.
This Gen I GTM in Poland mounted the DRLs above the front grille. I am finding that this area is very busy. I use the upper lip of the front grill to manage the cross connection between head lights, hazards, fog lights. I'm not sure I would want to add the DRLs there. I corresponded with this builder, and asked him about the DRLs. As in every case, GTM builders are quite happy to share their knowledge.
This is half a terminal block. Easily cut with a hack saw.
The DRLs were cut into the body to the left and right lower corners of the grille opening. The fiber glass is very thick in this area, and it is tough going. The wires coming off the DRLs is 22 gauge (not the easiest stuff to work with). Initially, I thought I would create some kind of socket to plug these into, but since I plan to add Angel Eyes around the head lights into the DRL circuit, the idea of some kind og 6 way splice become unmanageable.
I daisy chain the terminal block to create a single circuit. Then I just need a single to power or ground.
Over May and June, I worked on the Intellitronix Dash for the cockkpit. One of the techniques I used here were terminal blocks. Now six way splices are easy. The white plastic terminal blocks are very easy to customize. They come in strips of twelve connections and the strip can be cut apart with a hack saw. I need six connectors for the ground and six connectors for the power leads. That is: 2 x DRLs, 4 x Angel Eyes.
These are the power and ground terminal blocks for the DRLs. The green wire is from Power Cell #1, Circuit 8. The black ground lead hasn't been connected in this photo. The terminals were bonded to the hood using 3M 8115 panel bond.
Note: Angel Eyes cannot be installed after final paint is complete. This is probably 12 to 14 months in the future (and it could slip to Spring 2015). However, the Angel Eyes need a place to connect, so I AM building that now.
The hood mounting is problematic due to the variables associated with centering vis-a-vis the rest of the car.. I explain to people that there are 100 ways to mount the hood, and I settled on the 101st position. I have made the decision that hood will remain attached to the car and it will need to be painted in place. Everything else can be removed. To this point, a great number of things have been permanently mounted (e.g. lights, signals, parking sensors) and the wiring associated with these peripherals.
I mounted the terminal blocks above the front grille opening on the interior of the hood. This is convenient, because most of the wires can run directly to these terminal blocks. The ground is to the chassis area that supports the AC condenser, radiator and fan assembly. The power lead runs to Power cell #1 and is enclosed in wire loom. I made sure I left enough slack in the wires so the hood can open and close without pulling something loose.
Prerequisite Tasks: N/A Additional Costs: $205 Power Cell: 1 Circuit: 10 - TAN Master cell: BLUE/GREEN Time Requirement: 3 hours Date Started: April 27, 2013 Date Completed: April 27, 2013
inRESERVE is a battery monitor and kill switch. It monitors battery charge when the car is turned off. Should the battery discharge below a certain point, a solenoid pops and all taps to the battery are killed. As an added level of protection, there is a kill switch that shuts down all power to the car. It seems to me this is also a security feature, because the car can be completely turned off.
This is everything you need for the kit. I found oput I could purchase the cables I needed at Napa Auto Parts, and this proved much easier than fabricating the cable myself.
I mounted the solenoid switch at the center of the front fire wall above the tunnel entrance. Surprisingly, there is plenty of space to work with right here. There are four terminals on the solenoid:
Ground
Kill Switch
Starter/battery
Power cells
This is a nice flat spot about dead on the car's center line to install the inRESERVE module. It allows me to service this from either side of the car.
I ran the ground to the passenger next to where I mounted the horn. I sanded down to bare metal and established a ground point between the horn and the wiper motor. I plan to use this ground point for the horn, wiper motor and inRESERVE solenoid.
This is the driver's side wall next tot he master cylinders and above the steering column. I drilled my hole for the kill switch here. I can access it by reaching over the front tire.
I ran the kill switch lead to the drivers side. I ran the wire around the corner next to the master cylinders and over to the fender wall. I drilled a hole, mounted the kill switch. I put it here, because it allows me to reach through the wheel well over the front tire and toggle the solenoid. The second lead off the switch goes to an inline fuse holder (supplied with the kit). I installed this fuse and ran thee other lead back to the battery terminal.
This is the momentary switch installed. This worked pretty well. You can tighten it down and she should stay put.
The starter/battery terminal handles the following:
Runs the main battery cable from the solenoid to the starter. This takes the battery cable and runs it through the tunnel. There are a lot of things in the tunnel, but I think I am getting to the end.
Runs the battery cable to the battery via a mega fuse,
I remembered I had this piece in the Northern Man Cave. It is pictured here with out the top plate that encloses the evaporator unit or the am from the wiper motor. It is just placed here so I could mount the mega fuse.
The final line sends power to the power and master cells. It does this by running a lead to the mega fuse block for all power cells. It also provides a convenient terminal for taps that go directly to the positive terminal on the battery (e.g. the fused Vintage Air power lead).
This is a top down view of the mega fuse. This sits right behind the master cylinders. For build purposes, i can disconnect the cables form the mega fuse and remove this part.
The lead from the solenoid to the battery is fuses with a mega fuse block. The biggest problem I had was finding some place to put this that could actually be reached in the event it needed maintenance. The main issue is I am running out of flat surfaces to mount stuff like this. It occurred to me that there is a piece that sits above the master cylinder that has a nice flat surface, I mounted the mega fuse here, and I can easily disconnect the cable leads from the mega fuse to remove this piece to get access.
This is the inline fuse that leads to the positive battery terminal. This is a 10 amp fuse between the momentary switch and the battery.
I mounted the inRESERVE module on the center of the panel that is common to the Vintage Air Evaporator unit.
Power Cell: 1 Circuit: 3 - LIGHT GREEN Master cell: WHITE/GREEN Prerequisite Tasks: Vintage Air Gen IV installed Additional Costs: $435 Time Requirement: 6 hours (It should only take 2 - 3 hours) Date Started: April 14, 2013 Date Completed: April 20, 2013
The inVIRONMENT Controller kit is designed to provide absolute control of the Vintage Air Gen IV HVAC system via the inTOUCH MAX touch screen control system. If you have gotten to this page, then you have committed to the following:
Microprocessor controlled power system.
Jettisoned the Factory Five kit's Painless Wiring Kit.
Purchased the optional Air Conditioning Unit.
Probably have figured (albeit too late) that the evaporator should be installed first.
Committed to the entire ISIS concept.
inVIRONMENT kit: The green cables are the ISIS data bus cables, other cable pack interface to the Vintage Air ECU, a packet of butt splice and heat shrink wrap, controller module.
I used bolts to secure the top cover above the evaporator unit. When it became obvious I needed to get back into the area, I unbolted the cover and slid the vent hoses through the access slots.I also had to disconnect the front parking sensors.
14 pin Vintage Air connector from the harness to the Vintage Air ECU.
The Vintage Air Gen IV ECU has two ports: a 14 pin port for the Vintage Air harness and a 12 pin port that the ISIS harness can plug into. The first problem is the ECU is secured by a metal bracket and the ports are jammed up against the passenger foot well inner wall. I didn't like this because it forces the wires on both harnesses to be bent in order to fit. I pried off the metal bracket holding the ECU in place and repositioned it at a 45 degree angle. I used automotive goop to secure it to the top of the evaporator unit. This allows the harnesses to easily be plugged in and out.
ISIS Photo. This shows the Vinyage Air ECU with both cables attached. The left cable is the 14 pin Vintage Air harness. The right cable is the 12 pin ISIS cable. You can see the metal bracket that holds the ECU in place.
The Vintage Air harness is pretty stiff. This harness has two relays: one for the heater control valve and one for the AC compressor.I fabricated a acrylic mounting plate and riveted the relays to the plate. I fed the stiff wires for the ECU harness into the space above the evaporator unit. These are the portion of the harness that plugs into the power and ECU ports. I dug up the Vraptor stereo close out panel and put in place. I needed to ensure there was room to mount the relay blocks below the panel. I mounted using epoxy about an inch below the close out panel on a vertical chassis member.
Modified location of the Vintage Air ECU above the evaporator unit. It is at a 45 degree angle and the bracket is discarded. Orientation: left side is towards front. Top is the passenger side foot well wall. I secured the Vintage Air ECU with Automotive Goop.
The ISIS instructions direct you to do following:
Plug the 12 pin connector into the Vintage Air ECU.
Plug the 4 pin connector into the power/ground port on the inVIRONMENT controller.
Plug the 5 pin connector into the output port on the inVIRONMENT controller.
Splice the purple wire from the Vintage Air ECU into the ignition circuit. In my case, this circuit 1/3 from power cell #1.
This is the main data cable for the ISIS system. I have exposed the 7 wires in the cable. The red and white positive and negative terminal cables are running in the blue wire loom. This is hanging loose until a install the battery (sometime in late summer 2014).
This is all straight forward, although, it took me a while to get to this point. The final step is to splice the data bus cable from the inVIRONMENT controller into the main data bus cable that enables the master cell to communicate to the power cells. This is where things got interesting.
These are the relays on the Vintage Air Harness. I riveted them to a clear acrylic square. This does two things. It makes it easy to handle the relays, and it ensures I don't have directly attach them, to the chassis. This is a really cheap and easy way to handle things like this.
The data bus cable runs from power cell #1 to power cell #2 inside the tunnel. Therefore, it goes right past the evaporator unit. I cranked the car up on the lift, find the data bus cable and expose the 7 wires inside. I have 2 white, 2 light blue, 2 light green and a violet wire. The instructions direct you to splice blue to blue, green to green and black to black. Uh-oh - no black. On top of that that, ISIS is a rigidly color coded system. Time for a email to tech support (it was around 10 PM, dark, cold and snowing again!!!). Actually this turned into 3 or 4 emails to tech support. They're probably rolling their eyes, but the inVIRONMENT kit costs $400+ and the entire ISIS set up is going to run north of $5000. I figure I'm entitled to a couple dumb user emails.
Spliced violet wire to the ignition wire circuit. This how the ECU and controller receive power.
Jay Harris answered questions, provided a PDF technical document on how the main data bus is wired. I don't think I waited more than four hours for any response. The guy never sleeps! ISIS is worth every penny when you have that kind of support! The answer is to go back to a power cell, unclip the yellow data bus connector and open her up. The yellow connect is secured by two little ears. Be careful not to snap one of these off. Inside the connector are the 7 wires that are wired into the 8 pin (RJ45 looking connector). Inscribed inside the connector is B1 and B8. The wires are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 on top (the B1 row) and 5, 6, 7, 8 on bottom (the B8 row).
ISIS documentation. This shows the lay out of the wires in the ISIS data cable.
Decode this as follows:
Pin 5 is black (violet on my cable).
Pin 6 is green (white on my cable)
pin 7 is blue (light green on my cable)
pin 8 (light blue on my cable)
These wires are part of the Vintage Air Harness. Blue goes to the AC Compressor and Green runs to the heater control valve/
I am really glad I stopped, because had I blundered ahead, I would have wired this up wrong.
I spliced the data bus cables together. I used wire loom to protect the inVIRONMENT data bus and snaked this down the passenger side between the foot well wall and the evaporator unit, then ran it along side the drain tube until I reached the main data bus cable.
ISIS inVIRONMENT controller mounted with double sided tape above the evaporator unit. There is room in this area to hide things. I also have a 2 inch PVC conduit running between the passenger and driver side for wires. As you can see I use wire loom to protect everything. There is plenty supplied with the kit, but if you are running lots of circuits, you will run out. I found the best deal is at Harbor Freight.
The final touches:
The Vintage Air blue and green wires (heater control valve and AC Compressor) are loomed to together and run out the back of the tunnel.
The Vintage Air red and white wires (there are 2 white wires) are loomed together and run to the battery (not installed yet). There is a 30 amp fuse block that needs to be mounted, but I want to connect things up to the battery first.
<< Mount Master and Power CellsIntellitronix Create-A-Dash >> Major System Category: ISIS Wiring Task: Wire up head lights Parts: Kit wiring Circuits: 1/1, 2/1, 1/2, 2/2, 4/9, 1/9, 1/5, 1/7 Prerequisite Tasks: Master cell must be mounted, steering column must be installed Additional Costs: N/A Time Requirement: 4 - 5 hours Date Started: April 7, 2013 Date Completed: April 8 2013
I have been operating from my final wiring diagram. This is the wiring bible. If I divert from this, I had better have a good reason. Once I had this finalized, I began working on wiring components (e.g. head lights, signals) to Power Cell #1. Power Cell #1 primarily deals with items under the front hood. Power cell #2 supports components inside the hatch. Everything connects to the master cell via a data bus. The Master Cell is mounted under the passenger dash board and wires are snaked through a conduit above the AC unit.
I had to get serious about organizing the A and B cable bundles on the Master Cell. This is on a hinge that drops down (as pictured) below the passenger side dash board. The AC blower motor is cover in yellow plastic behind the master cell. There is a 2 inch conduit I installed to allow cables to easily move from the master cell to the area uder the driver's side dash board.
The biggest change in mind set for wiring is to realize that the control stalk on the side of steering is nothing more than a switch. The heavy power consumption for conventional wiring (i.e the head light signal relays) are managed by ISIS. These concerns go away. All that needs to be done is to wire the harness for lights, signals and horn to the signal wires that correspond to the circuits. This is still a fair amount of work, but this eliminates the need for in line fuses.
I separated the cable bundles into their color groupings. Each grouping corresponds to the circuits for either the A or B connector on a power cell. Everything is color coded, so if you get lost or a tag comes off you can refer to the master list and figure out what's happening. ISIS is expensive, but Jay Harris and the boys have done a great job of thinking things through.
This is the blue plug on the steering column. The first thing I did was extend the wires on the plug. This provides some room for error and slack on the electrical line. I added approximately 1 foot to each of the leads coming off the plug. It is a little hard to read, but each pin on the plug is identified by a letter. For the most part, just follow the chart provided in the build manual, and recognize that in my case I am wiring to ISIS not the Painless Wiring Harness. There are some changes to how this works.
This is splice between the extending wires from the steering column and one of the ISIS master cell wires. I have been pretty good about applying heat shrink to the splice, then wrapping in black electrical tape.
On my plug there were two wires for high beams coming out of pin K. I wired both of them to my extension wire. Next I sorted the Master Cell wiring harness by color groups. Next I selected the 8 signal wires corresponding to the circuits and separated them. These I pushed (from the Master Cell) through the conduit (to the steering column). The manual indicates that pins X, Y and Z need to wired to the battery positive. For ISIS, these are wired to ground.
Component
Power Cell / Circuit
Master Cell Wire
Blue Plug Pin
Right Signal
1/1
White – Black
B
2/1
Yellow – Black
B
Left Signal;
1/2
White – Red
C
2/2
Yellow – Red
C
Dash / Parking
4/9
Light Blue – Yellow
R
Horn
1/9
Blue – Yellow
V
Low Beam
1/5
White – Green
L
Hi Beam
1/7
Blue – Red
K
Ground
N, W, X, Z
This photo isn't the best, but it shows the blue plug on the steering column with extended cables .
