Clutch Line Routing

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Major System Category: Transmission
Task: Route clutch line to rear
Parts: Coated clutch line (same as brake line)
Prerequisite Tasks: Install master cylinders
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 30 minutes
Date Started: July 30, 2012
Date Completed: July 30, 2012
The clutch line is pretty much the same task as routing the rear brake lines. There were no real issues here. I ran the clutch line all the way to the end of the car. This is one of those tasks that has to wait for the engine/transaxle purchase.

I spray painted the brake line red in a couple of spots. This is my method of keeping things straight. I plan to tag every line running though the tunnel.

GTM A/C Evaporator Kit

<< Coolant lines                                  Install InVIRONMENT - Circuit 1/3  >>

Major System Category: AC & Cooling System
Task: Mount the evaporator unit
Parts: Vintage Air Evaporator unit. (It is the big thing with a bunch of ducts coming off it)
Prerequisite Tasks:

• Dismantle the passenger foot well
• Disconnect the passenger side front brake line

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 60 minutes to bolt this into place. Longer if dismantling is required.
Date Started: August 4, 2012
Date Completed: August 4, 2012
Consideration: This needs to be done before the passenger foot well is installed, and probably, before the front passenger brake is run. However, it is good to have the hard and soft coolant lines run in order judge clearance.

Vintage Air Evaporator unit. SOmehow I need to get this mounted in the GTM.

I didn't know about this handy little item until it came time to unpack the Vintage AC system. This is a big box, and I sat there staring at everything, wondering where and how it was going to fit inside the GTM. This is definitely a time to plug Vraptor Speedworks. One of the items I purchased last December was the AC Plenum relocation part. I knew it made sense at the time, but I really didn't have an appreciation for how much sense it made! This item relocates the blower motor to the passenger footwell and recycles inside air instead of outside. It also eliminates this HUGE cowl.

I removed the panels common to the tunnel, but this did not give me the clearance I needed to swing the evaporator unit in  and out. I removed triangular piece (this has to be modified for the plenum) and the three fold piece. With these removed I could easily swing the unit in and out. Orientation: passenger foot well.

I ended up drilling out the rivets on four panels connected to the passenger side footwell. I have to say (shameless plug here) that my panels were really solidly installed. It took work to get them off the car! Once the footwell is dismantled, it is an easy thing to swing the evaporator in and out of the tunnel. It sits above the hard coolant lines, and there needs to be some clearance.

This is the rear of the evaporator unit. The hard coolant lines are running under neath. I used the clamp to get an idea of where it should rest. Orientation: Passenger side front third of the tunnel.

This is the Factory Five replacement bracket. I bolted the bracket onto the evaporator unit (not seen) and  slid the  bracket upwards until it was flush with the tunnel cross member. orientation: Passenger side front third of tunnel. 

Front bracket on the evaporator unit.  It is too wide for the GTM chassis. I drilled new holes and installed rivnuts. The excess needs to be cut off.

The front bracket for the evaporator is wider than the cross member it rests on. The excess will need to be trimmed. I plan to do that later. The rear bracket is replaced with the Factory Five bracket. The trick I discovered here was to bolt the end of the bracket in place, and slide it up until outside of the becomes flush with the tunnel cross member. Once I had that position, I put a clamp under the bracket, and riveted the bracket in place.

Rear bracket riveted in place. Unit installed. The passenger side footwell remains dismantled.

I marked the front bracket for rivnuts. The slots for attachment do not work since they drop into open space on the other side of the chassis cross member. I drilled new holes and bolted the unit into place.

Consideration: before you even think about the AC Plenum or buttoning things up, go find the hard lines for the AC. Once everything is tight, there is ABSOLUTELY NO ROOM TO WORK ON THESE.

Hard lines off the Evaporator. You can see the accumulator bolted above the steering rack. I think this is easier to do from below, because you don't have to fight the cross member where the evaporator bracket is bolted.  In both cases there are two nuts that need to be tightened.  In this photo they are hidden by the cross member. Orientation: Taken from above. Left side is towards the front of car. Right side is towards cockpit.

Unfortunately, I learned the hard way about the coolant lines. I installed the AC plenum relocation and bolted down the evaporator unit. The cross member that the evaporator unit is attached to interferes with connecting the hard coolant lines. BTW: The instructions at this point are vague (that's putting it kindly). I ended up drilling out the rivets on the AC Plenum, unbolting the evaporator unit and standing under the car to get the hard lines installed. This is a major pain. I plan to leave everything loose until this beast is in place.

Issue: Remember to put the O rings in and grease them with refrigerant oil.

This the O ring for one of the hard lines (and my thumb).

Issue: If the evaporator ever needs maintenance or replacement, this is going to be a major job. I think the footwell needs to be as solid as possible. Therefore, it needs to be riveted back into place.

With the evaporator in place, I depart from the manual's instructions. This is when I install the AC Plenum Relocation pieece, and change the location of the motor.

Brake Line Routing (front)

<< Brake Line Routing (Rear)                                      Clutch Line Routing >>

Major System Category: Brakes & Suspension
Task: Mount front brake bracket and connect steel braided lines.
Parts: Brake Line components
Prerequisite Tasks:

1. Mount suspension and brakes
2. Master cylinders

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 Minutes
Date Started: July 30, 2012
Date Completed: July 30, 1012
I think the brake line routing for the front brakes is harder to complete. One thing I did was I went and dug out the windshield washer reservoir. I read on a couple of build logs that it should be installed prior to running the front brakes. I didn't install it, but I taped it in place. The idea is that it takes up space. I was quite surprised at the size of the reservoir. I though it would be smaller.

Ensure that all lines coming off the master cylinders do not protrude  above the sight line of the inner wheel wells. I think there is a little wiggle room here, but I made sure I had some space.

Consideration: Temporarily install wind shield washer reservoir to ensure the brake lines do not interfere.

After messing up one brake segment, I taped the flange bolt to the end of the brake line so it could  not slide around. I think I was very fortunate to have only messed up one brake segment.

The steering column and the battery are additional considerations when running the front brake lines. The 20 inch line segment is used for the front driver's side brake. I am so happy that I went ahead and modified the brackets. It made this entire process much easier to complete.

Driver's side brake line installed.

Consideration: Ensure all plumbed brake lines are below the line of sight for the inner wheel wells. The top of the inner wheel wells is where the bulb seal for the front hood is placed.

Passenger side brake line complete.

I do not claim that my brake line bends are works of art. It did managed to include service loops, and I do not have any kinks in the lines. I carefully tightened down on the nuts and bolts. I did not want a repeat of snapping off a soft metal piece as I did when I put together the Big Brake Upgrade.

Up and down on the ladder to the top of the lift. I have to  be careful not to smack my head on the garage ceiling. I only have 10 feet. I've gotten pretty good at climbing around on top of the lift. I'm sure there's some safety regulation that I am violating.

I found myself needing to be under and over the car as I worked the line into place. I finally set a step ladder next to the lift and climbed up and down until I had both lines run.

Brake Line Bracket (Rear)

<< Brake Line Bracket (Front)               Brake Line Routing (Front) >>

Major System Category: Brakes & Suspension
Task: Run brake line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes
Parts: Brake Line components
Prerequisite Tasks:

1. Mount suspension and brakes
2. Master cylinders

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 Minutes
Date Started: July 28, 2012
Date Completed: July 28, 1012
No modifications required for the rear bracket. It goes it more or less the way the manual says. The gotcha is the Koni shocks get in the way of the drill. Even if you have a right hand drill the clearance is pretty tight. The bracket is secured by two rivets through the sheet metal and two rivets into the cross member. I ended up using a longer rivet for the attached in the bracket to the cross member.

Rear bracket before it was riveted into place.

The important issue to ensure the flexible brake line running from the caliper to the side panel does interfere with the rear suspension travel. If the bracket shifts a bit during the rivet process, it is a simple thing to ream out the opening so the brake line end fits though the hole. Attach the slips and you are done.

My installation used all new hardware. If you are using donor brakes and rotors, you may have some issues removing  the brake clips.

Brake Line Routing (Rear)

<< Brake Line Bracket (Rear)                  Brake Line Routing (Front) >>

Major System Category: Brakes & Suspension
Task: Mount front brake bracket and connect steel braided lines.
Parts: Brake Line components
Prerequisite Tasks:

1. Mount suspension and brakes
2. Master cylinders

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 90 Minutes
Date Started: July 30, 2012
Date Completed: July 30, 1012

I figured I would mess up at least one segment of the brake line, and I did. I don't think this is a big deal. I plan to run down to NAPA tomorrow and purchase/order a replace piece. At this point, there are plenty of brake line segments to finish the brake line routing.

Brake line segment with union attached to end.

T connection for rear brakes.

Adapters that enable the transition between the hard line and soft line. They screw into the soft brake line at the brackets. There is one for each brake.

Consideration: Tape the ends of the brake line segments so the flare nuts don't travel too far from the ends. This is how I messed up one of the line segments, because I put a bend in the line, then discovered the flare nut was on the wrong side of the bend.

Rear passenger side brake line.

I think routing the rear brake lines are easier than the front. You have more room to work. If you have a lift, then you can easily run the segments along the driver's side of the tunnel. I did not use any fasteners to secure the brake line inside the tunnel as I still have to route the clutch lines. I infer from the photos in the manual that these lines run together.

Driver side rear brake line.

Consideration: I plan to tag the brake lines and clutch lines so I can differentiate them should/when problems arise during the Go Kart phase.

T connector under the car mid way through the tunnel.

With the brake line brackets in place, it is simple to get things just so. I put service loops into the lines where it made sense to do so. You have enough space to so on both rear lines. I installed the metric adapters on all the flexible lines before I started routing the brake lines.

Brake Line Bracket (Front)

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Major System Category: Brakes & Suspension
Task: Mount front brake bracket and connect steel braided lines.
Parts: Brake Line components
Prerequisite Tasks:

1. Mount suspension and brakes
2. Master cylinders

Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 2.5 hours
Date Started: July 28, 2012
Date Completed: July 28, 1012
When I turned the page for brake line routing, it seemed like a lot of things were going on. I broke things down into four tasks:

1. Brake Line Routing (Front)
2. Brake Line Routing (Rear)
3. Brake Line Bracket (Front)
4. Brake Line Bracket (Rear)

This is the build manual photo. It shows how they want the hard brake line to interface with the steel braided line, but it never explains the miracle required to configure the hard line. I am a world class expert in screwing things like this up. 

There are a number of tasks that need to be performed here. I decided to tackle the brackets first, so I could concentrate on the hard brake line routing later. The kit supplies a bracket designed to attach to the bolts that attach the upper control arm to the chassis nearest the cockpit area. The whole thing seems overly complicated, and it introduces a kink in the hard brake line that seems real easy to screw up.

I taped the bracket inside the inner wheel wells. What you don't see in this photo is the steering column and master cylinders. This is at the junction of the inner wheel wells and driver's foot box exterior. Orientation: Looking up from the under side of the car on the driver's side.

Fortunately, there are others who stared at the same photo and decided there had to be a better way. RumRunner is a builder in Maryland. He has photos showing a better way to do this:

This is the other bracket taped in place (Gorilla tape is wonderful).  This approach really doesn't change  the height of the entry through the inner wheel well. It just eliminates the line kink.

Consideration: This is a design change. It is up to you as to whether or not you want to do this. Personally I think it is an improvement.

These brackets are marked for cutting.

I mounted the brackets inside the inner wheel wells and marked them. I retreated to the inner sanctum of the Northern Man Cave and retrieved my die grinder with its trusty cutting wheel. The brackets are made out of soft aluminum. It is a very quick job to cut and drill these brackets for an inside mount. Besides taking off the bolts on the suspension after my buddy Glen tighten things down for me. just didn't seem right.

This is the original bracket (top), and the modified "L" shaped bracket (bottom) that I used.

I took the tires off the car. The extra room comes in handy. After the bracket is riveted into place, the hole to run the brake line through needs to be drilled. RumRunner said he used a 7/8" drill bit. I did not have anything that big. I drilled a pilot hole from the inside of the wheel wells, then used a 15/32" bit to drill a hole from the outside. I finished it off with the Dremel steel cutting bit. (I did wander down to the local hardware store, looking for a 7/8" bit. Never found one that worked in my drill. I think God took pity on my confused mind and plopped me in front of the Dremel bits, as if to say, "Look dummy,. Try this one!")

Bracket riveted into place. Two rivets through sheet metal and two rivets into the frame, plus black silicone.

The Dremel cutting bit did a nice job of deburring the edges. About this time I remember there were some parts left over from the Big Brake Kit. The kit I purchased from West Coast Corvette included the clips and the mounts for a Corvette replacement. I just needed the clips. I ran the end of the braided brake line thought the bracket and slid the clip holder into place. It sounds so easy. It takes a little bit of work to get that done. 

Braided steel brake line running from the caliper through the inner wheel well  and clipped to the bracket. Orientation: Driver's side.

Same brake line as above, just from a different angle.