Fender Louvers

 << Hood Louvers                                                            Mount DRL >>

Major System Category: Body (Hood)
Task: Install fender louvers
Parts: Optional FF Part
Prerequisite Tasks: Mount the hood
Additional Costs: $199
Time Requirement: 6 - 10 hours
Date Started: October, 01, 2012
Date Completed: October, 10, 2012
The fender louvers are the opposite of the hood louvers. Where the hood louver drop into the hood, the fender louvers are designed to ride on top of the hood. They are also substantially bigger than hood louvers. I did some preliminary measurements and discovered that the fender louvers are cut to slightly different sizes. This is similar to what I found with the roof scoop. (i.e. I needed to find the center line of the car and the center line of the scoop and make sure they were aligned. then I needed to measure from the top edge of the door opening to common points on both sides of the scoop as it extended back across the roof.) There are similar challenges with the fender louvers.

Front end shot with both the fender and hood louvers set in place.

Like the hood louvers, the fender louvers require the vent slots to be cut. I used a Dremel with a heavy duty cut off wheel to trim out the vent slots. Next, I mounted a drum sander and smoothed out the cuts. I really need to get a second battery for the Dremel, it only runs about 15 minutes before performance falls off.

One of the fender louver pieces. The vents need to be cut and sanded.

Once I had the cuts made, it was time to figure out where to mount them (yeah, I know on the hood). There is definitely a drivers and passenger side version. They arrived with the kit. At the time, I was too busy disassembling the basic aluminum panels, hauling up the suspension and trying to get the car up on wheels to pay attention. However, now I am paying attention, and all I can say is - measure everything on the hood. The left and right versions do not measure out the same. When I measure the vent openings (parallel to the car's centerline) from the smallest to the largest, the passenger side is 3/4 inch longer.

I measured from the point of the hood to the first louver vent opening. I did the same measurement on both sides so the louvers started the same point on the hood.

I figured this out, because I could not seem to get the laser level to line up. I might get the top of the louver in line, but by the time I got to the fifth louver I was off. I decided it would be better to have the louvers closest to the cockpit lined up. I measured 21.5 inches from the point of the hood (between the latch and the door) down the seam of the fiber glass to the center line of the first vent. This gave me my front to back placement.

This is the contour that I used to measure the center line of the vents. This  is a line that is symmetrical.

There is a contour line that runs between the hood louver cut outs and the approximate location of the fender louvers. I measured from this line to identify the center line for each set of louver slots. Next I measured the width of each louver, identified the end points of the slot I needed to cut into the hood and marked it all up. I remeasured everything the next day, made adjustments and got ready  to cut into a perfectly good fiber glass hood.

Once I  figured out the proper location of the fender louver, I marked the location of the fender louver. This really helps when marking and cutting the louver slots in  the hood, and  for final placement of the fender louver.

I made my cuts into the fiber glass. Five slots on each side of different length. Thankfully this doesn't have to perfect and neat. The louver piece coves up up the cuts. I used the diamond cutting blade on the die grinder to get things started, then I used the jig saw to make the lateral cuts. I finished this off using the Dremel with a cutting blase to complete the end cuts. I sanded the rough edges, rechecked my work. Everything looks okay. I cleaned off the dust from the fiber glass on both the louver pieces and and the hood.

This the rough mark up for slots to be cut into the hood. Measure this several times and make sure  you're happy.

This is the passenger side of the hood. The sanded  seam can clear be seen.

This is the driver's side. These are the cuts in the hood. 

The fender and hood louvers are ready for bonding using 3M 8115 panel adhesive.

There is seam on the hood that needs to be sanded down before the fender louver pieces will sit flush. I ran a 60 grit sanding disc along this seam to eliminate the extra material. This is an area where the fiber glass is a little bit thinner than the rest. Therefore to reinforce things, I mixed up two batches of bondo and reinforced the thinner areas of the fiber glass between the cuts on the underside of the hood.

The final step is to feather in the fiber glass around each louver. This is going pretty good! Maybe one or two more layers of Bondo, then plenty of sanding.

I bonded the fender louvers without issue. I applied to beads of 3M 8115 panel adhesive, then held down the fender louvers using Gorilla Tape. I let it set up for 24 hours. I did not have optimal temperatures for this process. I need to eliminate the edges, so I plan to sand, then fiber glass the edge so it blends into the hood.

Rear Brake Vent

<< Mount Body Shell                                        Next Link >>

Major System Category: Body (Shell)
Task: Cut out rear vent slots
Parts:
Prerequisite Tasks: Mount the body
Additional Costs: N/A
Time Requirement: 2.5 hours
Date Started: September 17, 2012
Date Completed: September 21, 2012
I seemed to have more trouble cutting out these little slots than all the other body cut outs I have performed. Anyway, when I finished they were jagged and rough. I used a file, the Dremel with a drum sander and 180 grit sand paper to get things evened out. This is the only area that I plan to use the Factory Five supplied mesh.

Rear vent screens after they are formed and painted.

I painted the mesh screen black. This is keeping with the gloss black accents I am incorporating into the car's image. Next I did a test fit of the screen against the opening. The screen needs to be formed to the contour of the inside of the rear vent. To bend the mesh, I used a vice to evenly bend the creases at something less than a 90 degree angle. This is keeping with the angle of the fiber glass form on the inside of the body shell. There's no need to be exact. You just need the creases to work with.

3M adhesive tape applied to the screen mesh. Ready for install.

I used 3M double sided adhesive tape to attach the mesh to the side of the fiber glass. I have used this successfully on my Corvette in attaching Race Mesh grills to the brake ducts. I applied the 3M tape in two strips. Be careful not to roll the tape when applying the mesh screens to the fiber glass.

Final install.

The final bit of work requires sanding and glazing putty to smooth out the cuts. I work these tasks in around other things I am doing on the car. They take time, but in small chunks, as I have to wait for things to dry.

Rear Hatch Louvers

<< Rear Hatch Release Popper                                            Rear Body Louver >>

Major System Category: Body (Hatch)
Task: Install rear hatch louver
Parts:

• Rear Hatch Louver
• 8115 3M Bonding Kit
• Fiber Glass supplies

Prerequisite Tasks: Assemble and mount hatch latch
Additional Costs: $42
Time Requirement: 2 hours
Date Started: September 14, 2012
Date Completed:  September 20, 2012
The build manual calls for mesh to be used for the rear hatch screen. This is the cutout located between the hatch window and the rear edge of the hatch. I have read repeated posts where people talk about heat issues related to the engine bay. One guy indicated that after 20 minutes the hatch glass was too hot to touch. Recently, I saw photo where someone had built a beautiful engine cover. My thought was how hot does that sucker get.

The louvers are shipped flat. They need to be bent and secured against the  brackets for each set of louvers. 

The mesh supplied with the kit restricts air flow too much. This is the conclusion of the builders who have gone ahead of me. This is one of the benefits of starting on chassis #402. Just like there isn't a silver bullet to provide instant horsepower, there isn't a single modification that provides the cooling and venting necessary. The solution is to attack the problem from multiple angles:

• Vent the undercarriage.
• Install the roof scoop.
• Replace mesh with louvers:
• Side vents ahead of the rear wheels
• Rear hatch
• Vent the diffuser.
• Vent the rear body
• Install a second louver below the hatch louver
• Install additional vents below the tail light assembly

Louvers are bonded and painted.

Since heat is the enemy (and this car will only be driven on bright, sun shiny days), I need to do everything possible to vent the heat from the engine bay. I purchased the rear hatch louver from Vraptor Speedworks. If you are serious about doing the job right, you will purchase Vraptor parts. I had my parts 2 days after I ordered them (Shane provides super service!)

The louver is clamped in place and the 3M 8115 is allowed to setup for 24 hours.

Most of the work is already complete. All I have to do is:

1. Paint and/or powder coat the parts.
2. Bend the louvers into place.
3. Attach and bond the brackets.
4. Bond to the hatch.

Finished install.

Rear Body Louver

<< Rear Hatch Louver                                        Exhaust Vent >>

Major System Category: Body (Shell)
Task: Install rear body louver

Parts:

• Rear Body Louver
• 8115 3M Bonding Kit
• Fiber Glass supplies

Prerequisite Tasks: Mount the body
Additional Costs: $67
Time Requirement: 2 hours
Date Started: September 15, 2012
Date Completed: September 20, 2012
The rear body louver replaces a screen mesh. It provides better air flow out of the engine bay than the screen mesh supplied in the basic kit. The louver is shipped flat. Assembly requires that the louvers be bent at an angle and braces be installed to hold the louvers in place. I used 3m 8115 to bond the braces to the louvers. Next I painted the louvers a gloss black.

I used the laser level to mark the center line, then marked off the cut outs based on this center line.

Unlike the rear hatch, the rear body needs to be cut. I measured everything a couple of times. Used the louver as a guide and made sure the lines all matched, then used my Dremel with a cut off wheel to make the initial cuts. I followed this with a variable speed jig saw.

I used a white Sharpie to mark the initial cuts for each louver set.

Consideration: Where a mask, goggles, a hat and hearing protection. This can get pretty loud and it kicks up plenty of dust.

This is what my initial cut out markings looed like. Later I eliminated the interior  fiberglass strips.

I painted both pieces with a high gloss automotive paint rated for high heat.

I set the louver in place to give me a sense of position prior to final install.

Prior to finally installation, I sanded and smoothed the edge of the opening. I used 3M body putty to fill in any gaps or cracks along the edge. The installation went fairly easy. I applied a bead of 3M 8115 bonding adhesive around the entire edge, then braced the louver upwards against the fiber glass body shell. I reversed my clamps so that they were configured as spreaders, then braced them against the transaxle bracket.

Both the rear hatch and rear body louvers are installed.

Roof Scoop

<< Mount Body Shell                                      Roof (Sound Proofing) >>

Major System Category: Body (Shell)
Task: Mount the roof scoop
Parts: Roof Scoop (Optional Part)
Prerequisite Tasks: Mount the body
Additional Costs:
Time Requirement: 5 hours
Date Started: September 6, 2012
Date Completed: September 15, 2012
The roof scoop is more than just a pretty piece to add to the GTM's exotic look. It is a functional air scoop designed to force cold air into the engine bay (in motion) and to allow hot air to vent from the engine bay (at rest). It is a molded piece of fiberglass that needs to be centered on the roof of the car.

Roof scoop from the front. The opening requires trimming.

Consideration: The instructions I found for this were in threads on the Factory Five Forums. The description of the item on the FF website indicates that some body work is required.

Rough initial fit. There is a lip that anchors to the from the wind screen opening.

These are the items I have identified so far:

1. The scoop is longer than the roof, so the end will have to be trimmed. I am pretty sure this is by design.
2. The intake scoop is not open. This needs to cut out.
3. The slot in the rear of the roof (basically close to the rear portion of the roll cage needs to be cut out. I am making mine 12 x 1 inches.
4. The scoops needs to be fiberglassed to the roof.

Rear of the roof scoop. The untrimmed section overlaps the hatch .

I did my measurements. The scoop is approximately 26 inches wide. However, do not assume the scoop itself is centered. Measure from the edge of the roof line to get an approximate center, then measure a center line as well. There is a front lip that helps to position and anchor the scoop.

The slot is marked for the scoop cut out. This be covered by the  scoop when it is installed.

I moved my slot as far back as possible. I wanted to leave enough material so as not to compromise the strength of the roof line supporting the hatch. It seems very light weight right now, but once the glass is installed, it will get significantly heavier.

The scoop after excess is trimemd from the rear end of the piece.

I need to double check where the slot exits the roof on the underside, to ensure it is on the engine bay side of the rear class. The roof scoop requires two different cuts into the fiberglass prior to install.

1. The scoop's front opening.
2. The slot at the rear of the roof.

This is the front cut into the roof scoop. I suppose this could be completed after the scoop is mounted, but it is much easier to do this when the scoop is on a bench.

I mounted a cut off wheel on my Dremel. I know other builder's use a reciprocating saw for this work, and I sure it is very fast. I was more interested in precision. The battery charge on the Dremel was up for each cut. After I cleared away the excess debris, I used a drum sander (also on the Dremel) to even out the edges.

This is the slot just forward of the hatch (that's a nice even gap on the hatch, if I sat so myself). The roll  bar is visible .

The final piece for the roof scoop is bonding it to the the roof. I checked with other builders blogs and build journals (there are no instructions for this entire procedure). Most people decided to go with 3M 8115 adhesive. Most people griped about the cost of the gun (approximately $60). I think it is a good investment! Chances are there will be something that needs bonding. I got a great deal on Ebay.

1. 8115 gun.
2. 2 adhesive packs
3. 6 nozzles

This is where the center of the scoop mounts. It is around 9 inches up from the edge of the window.

The 8115 system is very easy to use. I marked the areas of the roof that would act as the mating surfaces for the scoop. I put a generous amount of bonding agent down, troweled it with a spreader and then mounted the scoop per my measurements. (I measured this one multiple times.) I used a combination of clamps and weights. In my case, 8 lbs boxes of 9mm bullets. I set them down in a train on both sides of the scoop and let it set up over night.

This area is the band between the edge of the scoop and where it is raised for air flow to the back slot. This averaged about 4-3/4 inches. This isn't necessarily cut even on both sides, so you really need to measure from the edge of the car to the raised area of the scoop.

The final thing I did was run a bead of 8115 bonding agent along the edge of the  scoop - like a caulk line on a bath tub. The final touch is to glass the scoop edges into the roof and create a seamless boundary.

She is clamped down and weighted down for the night, The instructions say 4 hours to set up if the temperature is 73 degrees or higher. We're starting to see night time temps in the fifties so, I let her sit all night long (about 18 hours total)..

Rear Hatch Fitment

<< Initial Measurement and Mounting                             Rear Hatch Hinge >>

Major System Category: Body (Hatch)
Task: Sanding and fitment
Parts: Hatch
Prerequisite Tasks: Preliminary body mount
Additional Costs:
Time Requirement: Unknown - take your time
Date Started: August 30, 2012
Date Completed: August 31, 2012
I decided to start with the hatch, because it is really a fairly simple piece for fitment. Unlike the doors that can take weeks to get right.

Again, I am referencing the appropriate YouTube video for this section of the car. This video covers more than just the hatch.

Hatch upper right.

Hatch upper left.

Hatch Lower right.

Hatch lower left.

There is nothing fast about this process. I set up a sanding station. I put on a 3M mask, safety glasses, and ear protection. I am using a Dewalt 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a medium sanding disc to trim material off the edges of the hatch. The passenger side seemed to fit perfectly. I was high on a number of areas on the driver's side.

The area where the hatch narrows proved to be a problem. I discovered the high spot was underneath the hatch piece. Eventually, I got that sanded down so the hatch lay inside the opening with a fairly even gap. This is the easy part. The hinges and the gas struts can alter this fitment.

The bottom of the batch is going to pop up, because the latch is not installed. With regard to the latch, I am investigating a popper mechanism.

The Forums - Wealth of Knowledge

I haven't written much since I ordered the kit. It is supposed to ship 2 weeks from today! I haven't been idle during the dead time between planning and the GTM's arrival. If you plan to build a GTM, then become a member of the forums. There are two of them:

• www.ffcars.com
• www.thefactoryfiveforum.com

There is a wealth of knowledge and experience. There are people who will answer your dumb questions. There are ideas about improving the design. There are 3 items that I discovered on the forums.

1. Setting up the chassis is really important. Do it wrong and you have beast fighting you on straight aways and something totally unmanageable in the turns. Do it right and you have a car that will keep that dopey grin plastered on your face. The chassis set up thread is a gold mine. There are so many things that a marginal guy (like me) never considered: spring rates, shock recovery, tow in values, suspension issues. I want to build a safe car, and paying attention to the information presented here will make that possible. Yes, I will end up replacing the kit shocks, and using the sway bars that I upgraded on my Corvette, but the end product will be something that will have extraordinary handling. The replacement components can be ordered to accommodate the Ram Pro Lift I plan to add to the build for the front end.
2. Everybody has a handle on the forums. Mine is DocGlock (for those who know me, they understand). Another guy goes by the handle Fastthings. He approached his build starting with the body. There are over 25 YouTube videos that go into great detail on how to fix things on the body. Fastthings shows how to measure the symmetry of your chassis using a laser level. He offers advice about working on the doors and the windows. He shows how to mount the fender louvers (without pop rivets). He points out where he grinds down things on the chassis, welds new things to make it stronger and better. 
3. Another guy goes by the handle Crash. He has a site called My Race Shop. One of the design issues that has caused problems is the location of the coolant overflow tank. This is the standard tank located on the right side of the engine bay for the Corvette C5. In this configuration it works fine. However, in the GTM configuration it is still mounted on the right hand side of the forward bay and the tubing is routed through the tunnel to the engine behind the cockpit. The problem is the coolant tank ends up below and too far away from the engine. This can cause steam meltdown (not a good thing). Crash's solution replaces the coolant overflow tank with a header tank deployed above the engine and behind the cockpit.

These are three items I have found on the forums. There are plenty more examples. So if you plan to build one of these exotic cars, join the forums. They are free. They are informative. They are a valuable tool for the GTM builder.